Jeep Destinations
July 2001

 
 
   
   


 

Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone is the first and oldest national park in the world. By Act of Congress on March 1, 1872, Yellowstone National Park was "dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasuring ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people" and "for the preservation, from injury or spoilation, of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders...and their retention in their natural condition."

The primary features that initially attracted interest, and led to its preservation as a national park, were geological: the geothermal phenomena, the colorful Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, fossil forests, and the size and elevation of Yellowstone Lake.

Yellowstone is one of the few expansive natural areas remaining in the lower 48 states. Ninety-nine percent of the park's 3,400 square miles (2.2 million acres) remains undeveloped, providing a wide range of habitats that support one of the continent's largest and most diverse large mammal populations. Here, you meet nature on its terms, not yours.

Use the menu below to quickly access information on this park:

General Information
History
Reservation Information


General Information

Visitation

Visitation is highest in June, July, and August.

Location

Located primarily in the northwestern corner of Wyoming, with portions extending into southwestern Montana and southeastern Idaho.

Address

Yellowstone National Park
P.O. Box 168
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190-0168

Telephone

(307) 344-7381; TDD (307) 344-2386; Backcountry Office (307) 344-2160

Operating Hours & Seasons

Summer season runs from mid-April to late-October. Once a road/entrance opens, it is open 24 hours a day. (Exceptions are road construction and weather-caused restrictions.)

Winter season runs from mid-December to mid-March. The road from the North Entrance at Gardiner, MT to the Northeast Entrance and Cooke City, MT is open to wheeled vehicle use year-round. Only over-snow vehicles are allowed on other park roads.

Directions

There are five entrances to Yellowstone National Park.

  • North Entrance: U.S. Hwy. 89 from I-90 at Livingston, Montana
  • Northeast Entrance: U.S. Hwy. 212 from I-90 at Billings, Montana or Hwy. 296 from Cody, Wyoming
  • West Entrance: U.S. Hwy 191 from Bozeman, Montana or U.S. Hwy 20 from Idaho Falls, Idaho
  • East Entrance: U.S. Hwy 16 from Cody, Wyoming
  • South Entrance: U.S. Hwy 89 from Jackson, Wyoming

Commercial hauling/travel through Yellowstone National Park is prohibited.

Acreage

3,400 square miles (2.2 million acres)

Accessibility

Yellowstone's TDD number is (307) 344-2386.

Yellowstone offers many opportunities for disabled visitors. Please write to the Park Accessibility Coordinator; P.O. Box 168; Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190-0168.

Reservations/Permits

Camping/lodging/dining reservations are strongly recommended for all concession operated facilities. Reservations should be made as far in advance as possible. For reservation information, call (307) 344-7311.

Backcountry Camping Yellowstone has a designated backcountry campsite system, and a permit is required for all overnight stays

Fishing/Boating permits are required. Refer to the Fishing in Yellowstone section below for more information.

Basic Visit Recommendations

Check at visitor centers for information on road closures, weather forecasts, ranger-led activities, park regulations, and permits. Keep in mind that, due to high levels of visitation, travel through the park might be slow, especially during July and August. Be sure to make lodging and camping reservations as early as possible.

Yellowstone is large and its major scenic attractions are widely dispersed. You may get more from your visit by limiting your travels to one or two areas, if you have a day or less to spend in Yellowstone. Allow at least two days or more if you wish to see most of the major park attractions.

Special Events & Programs

Check at visitor centers while in the park.

Park Highlights

Geysers and Hot Springs

Yellowstone boasts the world's greatest concentration of thermal features; many of the most famous geysers and hot springs are located on the west side of the park along the 50-mile stretch of road between Mammoth Hot Springs and Old Faithful. Areas to visit include the Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces, Norris Geyser Basin, Fountain Paint Pots, Firehole Lake Drive, Midway Geyser Basin, Lower Geyser Basin, Biscuit Basin, Black Sand Basin, and the Old Faithful area.

Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River extends from the Canyon Village area to Tower Junction. You can enjoy the most famous and spectacular section from the overlooks along the North and South Rim Roads in the Canyon Village area. Trails run along the rims and into the canyon for closer views of the Upper and Lower Falls and the canyon's famous colors and shapes. All trails into the canyon are steep; please use caution when hiking. Climbing and off-trail travel in the canyon are illegal.

Yellowstone Lake Area

With 110 miles of shoreline, Yellowstone Lake is North America's largest mountain lake. The area is prime habitat for a variety of birds and animals, and draws anglers and boaters as well. Mud Volcano, 6 miles north of Fishing Bridge Junction, and West Thumb Geyser Basin, 22 miles north of the South Entrance, are unique thermal areas. They hint at the complex geologic story of Yellowstone Lake.

Self-Guiding Nature Trails

Yellowstone has seven self-guiding nature trails, which will help you explore the park's features on foot. Trail guides are sold in visitor centers and are available at trailheads.

History

Mammoth Hot Springs is the park headquarters; it is also the site of Fort Yellowstone, built during the Army era of park administration (1886-1918). The former Bachelors Officers' Quarters is now the Albright Visitor Center where the story of Yellowstone's colorful history is told.

Entrance Fees

The entrance fee is $20 for a private, noncommercial vehicle; $15 for each snowmobile or motorcycle; or $10 for each visitor over 16 years of age entering by foot, bike, ski, etc. This fee provides the visitor with a seven-day entrance permit for both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Remember to keep your admission receipt in order to re-enter the parks. Snowmobile operators must posses a valid motor vehicle operator's license.

Advance reservations are not needed to enter the park. Annual Area, Golden Access, Golden Age, and Golden Eagle Passports are possible alternatives to the above fees. A $40 annual pass for Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks is available. It is valid one year from date of purchase.

Golden Eagle Passport

The Golden Eagle Passport is an entrance pass to any national park, monument, historical site, recreation area, and national wildlife refuge that charges an entrance fee. It is a great convenience for those who plan on visiting several different areas that charge special fees. It is valid for one year from the purchase date. A Golden Eagle Passport may be purchased for $50 at any National Park Service entrance fee area or by mail. To order by mail, send check or money order (no cash, please) to:

National Park Service
1100 Ohio Drive, SW
Room 138
Washington, DC 20242
Attention: Golden Eagle Passport

Where entry is by private vehicle, the Golden Eagle Passport will admit the passholder as well as any passengers. Where entry by private vehicle is not possible, the pass will admit the passholder, spouse, children and parents.

The Golden Eagle Passport will not reduce use fees, such as those for camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, or tours. It covers entrance fees only.

Golden Age Passport

The Golden Age Passport is a lifetime entrance pass for those United States residents 62 years or older. These may be purchased at any National Park Service entrance fee area for a one-time processing fee of $10. The Golden Age Passport cannot be purchased by mail or telephone. Proof of age and citizenship or permanent residence must be shown at the time of purchase.

The Golden Age Passport will admit the passholder and any passengers in a private vehicle. When entrance is not via private vehicle, the pass will admit the passholder as well as children, spouse, and parents.

The Golden Age Pass grants a 50 percent discount to the holder on any federal use fees charged for things such as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, or tours. It does not, however, reduce the price of special recreation permit fees or fees for concessions.

Golden Access Passport

The Golden Access Passport is a free entrance pass to any national park, monument, historic site, recreation area, and national wildlife refuge for those who are blind or permanently disabled. The Golden Access passport may be obtained at any National Park Service entrance fee area. Proof of a medically determined disability and eligibility for receiving benefits under federal law is necessary at purchase.

The Golden Access Passport will admit the passholder and any passengers in a private vehicle. Where entrance is not by vehicle, the pass will admit the passholder, spouse, children and parents.

The Golden Access Passport also provides a 50 percent discount on any federal use fees charged for services and facilities. It does not cover special recreation permit fees or fees charged for concessions.

All passes described above are non-transferable.

Commercial bus tours are subject to a separate fee schedule based upon the seating capacity of the bus.

Vehicle Seating Capacity Fee

  • Sedan 1-6 passengers $25, plus $10 a person
  • Van 7-15 passengers $125 (no per person fee)
  • Minibus 16-25 passengers $200 (no per person fee)
  • Motorcoach 26 or more passengers $300 (no per person fee)

Transportation to Yellowstone

Commercial airlines serve the following airports near Yellowstone National Park all year: Cody and Jackson, WY; Bozeman and Billings, MT, and Idaho Falls, ID. The West Yellowstone, MT airport is serviced from June to early September.

Bus service from Bozeman, MT to West Yellowstone, MT via Highway 191 is available all year. Bus service directly from Idaho to West Yellowstone is limited to the summer months.

Commercial transportation to the park from Cody and Jackson, WY is available during the summer season. Commercial transportation from Bozeman, MT to Gardiner, MT is available during the winter and summer seasons. Contact local chambers of commerce for specific carriers and schedules.

Transportation Inside Yellowstone

There is no public transportation service provided within Yellowstone National Park.

AmFac Parks & Resorts provides bus tours within the park during the summer season. The Lower Loop Tour departs from locations in the southern part of the park only. The Upper Loop Tour departs from Lake Hotel, Fishing Bridge RV Park, and Canyon Lodge to tour the northern sections of the park only. The Grand Loop Tour departs from Gardiner, MT and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel to tour the entire park in one day. During the winter season, they provide several snowcoach tours from various locations. Please call (307) 344-7311 for information or reservations.

During the summer season, commercial businesses offer tours originating from Bozeman, MT, Jackson, WY, Cody, WY, and West Yellowstone, MT. During the winter season, some businesses provide snowcoach tours for most park roads or bus transportation on the Mammoth Hot Springs to Cooke City road.

Four Seasons Guide to Travel in Yellowstone

Most of the 3 million people who visit Yellowstone each year come during summer. However, more people are discovering the pleasures of Yellowstone in the "off seasons" spring, fall and winter. Yellowstone is a year-round park, but travel should be planned with consideration of the conditions you will likely encounter.

Construction may cause delays or road closures at any time of year. Specific dates for road openings and closings vary from year to year, and are directly related to weather conditions. If you are planning a spring or fall trip to Yellowstone, we urge you to call park headquarters for current road and weather information. Conditions often change rapidly, so stay informed.

Winter

Snowmobile and snowcoach travel runs from the second Saturday of December to mid-March. All roads and entrances, with one exception, are closed to wheeled vehicle travel and are groomed for over-the-snow vehicles. The exception is the North Entrance and the road from Gardiner, MT, through the Northeast Entrance to Cooke City, MT, which is open only to wheeled vehicles. Plowing stops at Cooke City, so you must return to the North Entrance to leave the park.

Spring

Plowing begins in early March. Depending on weather, the first stretches of road to open to motor vehicles include Mammoth-Norris, Norris-Madison, and West Yellowstone-Old Faithful; these roads open in mid-April. Roads on the east and south sides of the park, including East and South entrances, typically open in early May. The Sunlight Basin Road, between Cooke City, MT and Cody, WY, and Craig Pass, between Old Faithful and West Thumb, open by early May as conditions allow. Dunraven Pass, between Tower and Canyon Junctions, and the Beartooth Highway, connecting Cooke City to Red Lodge, MT generally open by Memorial Day weekend. Weather especially affects road openings over the higher passes. Spring storms may cause restrictions or temporary closures on some roads.

Summer

Park roads are generally open for travel, barring accidents, rock/mud slides or road construction. Storms may cause temporary restrictions (snow tire or chain requirements) or road closures. Large road reconstruction projects are underway in Yellowstone resulting in some closures of major sections of road.

Fall

The Beartooth Highway, connecting Cooke City to Red Lodge, MT closes for the season in mid-October. Depending on weather, park roads close for the season on the first Sunday of November. The only exception is the year-round road from Gardiner to Cooke City, MT. The winter season of snowmobile and snowcoach travel begins in mid-December.

Trip Checklist

  • Barring road construction, most park roads are open to automobiles from about May 1 to the first Sunday in November; please plan with this in mind.
  • Make lodging reservations as early as possible.
  • Plan your arrival to secure a campsite early in the day.
  • Review park regulation and permit information before your arrival.
  • Pack clothes that can be layered and that are appropriate for the season of your visit.
  • Get up-to-date road and weather information close to your time of visit by calling (307) 344-7381.
  • To purchase books, maps, or pamphlets about the park before you arrive, contact the Yellowstone Association at (307) 344-2293.

Road Construction

Road construction is perennial in Yellowstone National Park. In general, park roads have either been recently repaired or reconstructed, or are scheduled for repair or reconstruction. Approximately 80% of main park roads (about 185 miles) are in a structurally deficient state, with poor quality road bases failing under the weight, speed, and volume of modern traffic. Harsh winter weather and short construction seasons provide additional challenges.

Yellowstone's road needs are now being addressed under a 20-year, $300 million Federal Lands Highway Program for the park. For current road information, call (307) 344-7381.

Park Stats

  • 3,472 square miles
  • 2,219,823 acres
  • 63 miles north to south
  • 54 miles east to west
  • Larger than Rhode Island and Delaware combined
  • 91% in Wyoming
  • 7.6% in Montana
  • 1.4% in Idaho
  • Highest point: 11,358 feet Eagle Peak
  • Lowest point: 5,282 feet Reuse Creek
  • Approximately 5% is water; 15% is meadow and grassland; and 80% is forested.
  • Precipitation ranges from 10 inches at north boundary to 80 inches in the southwest corner.
  • Visitor Centers, Museums, Information Stations and Bookstores
  • Albright Visitor Center, Mammoth Hot Springs: open year-round
  • Old Faithful Visitor Center: open mid-April to late October and Mid-December to mid-March
  • Canyon Visitor Center: open mid-May through September
  • Fishing Bridge Visitor Center: open mid-May through September
  • Grant Village Visitor Center: open mid-May through September
  • Norris Geyser Basin Museum: open mid-May through September
  • Norris Geyser Basin Bookstore: open mid-May through September
  • Museum of the National Park Ranger, Norris: open mid-May through September
  • Madison Information Station: open early June through October
  • West Thumb Information Station: open early June through Labor Day
  • Locations with Yellowstone Association bookstores

Exhibits

All exhibits can be viewed during the summer season. Only the Albright Visitor Center at Mammoth Hot Springs is open year-round.

  • Albright Visitor Center, Mammoth Hot Springs: Exhibits on the park's natural and human history.
  • Canyon Visitor Center: Imagine Yellowstone children's art and writing exhibit.
  • Fishing Bridge Visitor Center: Exhibits on Yellowstone's birds and other wildlife will help you identify some of the animals in and around Yellowstone Lake.
  • Lake Hotel: Photographs on display in the lobby document the history of transportation in Yellowstone.
  • Grant Village Visitor Center: Yellowstone and Fire exhibit and film tell how fires have been a part of Yellowstone's history for thousands of years.
  • Norris Geyser Basin Museum: Exhibits on geothermal features of Yellowstone.
  • Museum of the National Park Ranger, Norris: Exhibits at this historic soldier station trace the development of the park ranger profession.

Other museums within a half-day's drive of Yellowstone's boundaries provide opportunities to gain further knowledge and understanding of the natural wonders and history of the park.

Lodging

AmFac Parks & Resorts operate lodging in Yellowstone National Park. Accommodations range from rustic cabins to luxury suites. Please call AmFac at (307) 344-7311 for reservations and information.

Dining

Dining facilities are available throughout the park. Options range from fine dining to snack shops and cafeterias. Dinner reservations are required at the fine dining facilities; inquire at any lodging front desk or dining room host's stand when you arrive at the park.

Picnicking

There are 49 picnic areas in the park. Overnight camping is not allowed in any of these areas. Liquid fuel stoves may be used for cooking at all picnic areas. Fires may be built only in grates provided at Snake River, Grant Village, Bridge Bay, Cascade, Norris Meadows, Yellowstone River, Spring Creek, Ness Peruse, and the east parking lot of Old Faithful. Most picnic areas have pit toilets, but none have drinking water.

Ranger-led Activities

A variety of activities and programs led by ranger-naturalists are offered throughout the summer. Activities vary from short talks and demonstrations at visitor centers, to longer walks and hikes. These programs are offered primarily in June, July and August. Some activities are handicapped accessible.

There are seven major areas offering ranger-led activities in Yellowstone: Canyon, Fishing Bridge/Lake, Grant, Madison, Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris, and Old Faithful. Each area presents a unique set of programs highlighting the natural and cultural resource themes related to that area. Summer program schedules are available after Memorial Day. Upon entering Yellowstone, you will receive a copy of Discover Yellowstone, a special supplement to the park's summer newspaper covering all ranger-naturalist programs, special events, exhibits, and other educational activities.

Children's Environmental Education

Along with family oriented ranger-led programs during the summer season, Yellowstone has an official Junior Ranger Program open to kids between 5 and 12 years of age. The goal of the program is to introduce children to the natural wonders of Yellowstone and their role in preserving them for the future. To become a Junior Ranger, kids pay $2 for the activity newspaper, Yellowstone's Nature, available in any visitor center. After completing the requirements described in the newspaper, kids are awarded an official Junior Ranger patch. Requirements include attending a ranger-led program, hiking on a park trail, and answering questions about Yellowstone Park. Yellowstone's Nature also contains tips for predicting Old Faithful and a journal page to use and enjoy in the park or back at home.

The National Park Service continues to offer a curriculum-based residential program for 4th, 5th, and 6th grade students called Expedition: Yellowstone! Through this program, students learn about the park by combining classroom work with a trip (an "Expedition!") to Yellowstone. For more information please write: Expedition Yellowstone Coordinator, Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190-0168.

Self-guiding Trails

Yellowstone has seven self-guiding trails, each with its own 25-cent trail guide to help you explore the park's features on foot. The guides are sold in visitor centers and are available at trailheads. Thermal basins can be very hot on sunny summer days so take along a hat and sunglasses if you plan to walk in these areas. Be sure to stay on trails and boardwalks, and watch your step in thermal basins and along steep drop-offs.

Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces

Surreal in appearance, travertine terraces such as these are not found anywhere else in the park. As an early visitor described them: "the hot springs fall over a lofty hill of snowy whiteness, resembling cascades." A walking trail through the Lower Terraces and a one-way drive through the Upper Terraces offer views of these fascinating formations.

Upper Geyser Basin

The world's greatest collection of geysers is located here, including Old Faithful. Several miles of trail begin at the Old Faithful Visitor Center; stop in for orientation and geyser eruption information.

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

The Canyon and Upper and Lower Falls can be seen from overlooks along the rim drives. The North Rim Drive takes you to Inspiration, Grandview, and Lookout Points. A spur road leads to an overlook at the brink of the Upper Falls. The South Rim Drive leads to Uncle Tom's Trail and Artist Point. Trails also wind along both rims.

Norris Geyser Basin

Explore the hottest, most active thermal basin in the park. Trails start at the museum and lead to colorful hot springs and a number of active geysers.

Fountain Paint Pot

Active, ever changing mud pots and the variety of thermal activity and color make this area unique. The site is 8 miles north of Old Faithful on the road to Madison Junction.

Mud Volcano

Intriguing and explosive mudpots such as the Mud Volcano and the Dragon's Mouth have captured the imagination of park visitors through the years. Mud Volcano is located approximately 6 miles north of Fishing Bridge Junction (approximately 10 miles south of Canyon Junction).

West Thumb Geyser Basin

This basin is situated on the shore of Yellowstone Lake. Youll see boiling springs meeting cold lake water and view West Thumb Bay, a volcanic explosion crater (or caldera).

Day Hiking

Over 1,100 miles of trails are available for hiking. Most of Yellowstones 2.2 million acres is backcountry and managed as wilderness. Inherent backcountry dangers include: unpredictable wildlife, changing weather conditions, remote thermal areas, cold water lakes, turbulent streams, and rugged mountains with loose, "rotten" rock. Visiting wilderness means experiencing the land on its terms. Carefully read all backcountry guidelines and regulations, and be prepared for any situation.

There are numerous trails suitable for day hiking. Before your hike, stop at a ranger station or visitor center for trail information. Conditions may change suddenly and unexpectedly, and bear activity, rain or snow storms, high water, and fires may temporarily close trails. At a minimum, carry water, a raincoat or poncho, a warm hat, insect repellent, sunscreen, and a first aid kit. Its best to hike with another person. No permit is required for day hiking.

Refer to the Guides & Outfitters section for a list of commercial businesses that offer guided day hikes in Yellowstone National Park.

Fishing

Angling has been a major visitor activity at Yellowstone National Park for more than a century. Present regulations reflect the park's primary goals of resource protection and visitor use. The objectives of the fishing program are to:

  • Manage aquatic resources as an important part of the park ecosystem.
  • Preserve and restore native fishes and their habitats.
  • Provide recreational fishing opportunities for the enjoyment of park visitors, consistent with the first two objectives.

Fishing Season

With some exceptions, Yellowstone's fishing season begins on the last Saturday in May and continues through the first Sunday of November. Major exceptions are Yellowstone Lake, where the fishing season opens June 15, and Yellowstone Lake's tributary streams, which open July 15.

Fishing Permits

A current Yellowstone fishing permit is required. Anglers 16 and older are required to purchase either a $10,10-day permit or a $20 season permit. Anglers 12-15 years of age are required to obtain a free permit. Permits are available in the park at all ranger stations, visitor centers, and Hamilton General stores, and at numerous locations in adjacent communities outside the park. No state fishing license is required in the park.

Non-Toxic Fishing

Yellowstone has implemented a non-toxic fishing program. Fishing tackle such as leaded split-shot sinkers, weighted jigs (lead molded to a hook), and soft lead-weighted ribbon for nymph fishing are no longer allowed. Only non-lead alternatives are allowed.

Guided Fishing

Several outfitters offer guided fishing trips in Yellowstone National Park. Fishing permits are still required for those aged 12 and older.

Horseback Riding

AmFac Parks & Resorts offers one- and two-hour horse rides at Mammoth, Tower-Roosevelt, and Canyon. Advance reservations are recommended. They also offer horseback or wagon rides, which take visitors to a cookout site for a steak dinner. Advance reservations are required; call (307) 344-7311.

Guided stock trips into the backcountry (horse or llama) may be arranged with one of the stock outfitters licensed to operate in Yellowstone.

Private stock can be brought into the park. Overnight stock use is not permitted prior to July 1, due to range readiness and wet trail conditions. Horses are not allowed in campgrounds, but are permitted in certain backcountry campsites. For information on planning a backcountry trip with stock, call the Backcountry Office at (307) 344-2160.

Cross-Country Skiing

Many miles of trails in Yellowstones backcountry are available for skiing. Track is set only on a few trails. All unplowed roads and trails are open to cross-country skiing and showshoeing. When skiing on unplowed roadways used by snowmobiles, keep to the right to avoid accidents.

Inherent backcountry dangers include: unpredictable wildlife, changing weather conditions, remote thermal areas, deep snow, open streams, and rugged mountains with extreme avalanche danger. Be prepared for any situation. Carefully read all backcountry guidelines and regulations, and know the limits of your ability.

Most trails are marked with orange metal markers attached to trees. Few streams have bridges. Parties venturing into the backcountry should carry a USGS topographic map and a compass and know how to use them. Even on a well-marked trail, it is easy to get lost in a "whiteout" or blizzard. Only skiers thoroughly familiar with the area should attempt off-trail travel. When planning your trip, get specific information on conditions from rangers at a ranger station or visitor center.

Park elevations with adequate skiable snow range from 7,000 to 10,000 feet. Skiers and snowshoers who live at lower elevations should take a short day or overnight trip to test their capabilities before attempting longer outings.

A Backcountry Use Permit is required for all overnight ski trips. Trip planning should include allowances for limited daylight, snow conditions, temperature extremes, the number of people in the group, and their experience and physical condition. Overnight ski and snowshoe trips during December and January are difficult due to short days, extreme temperatures, and soft snow. Learn as much as you can about winter survival, and talk with park rangers before you leave on any trip.

Several outfitters offer guided one-day and overnight trips into Yellowstone's backcountry. These businesses would obtain any needed Backcountry Use Permits for the trips that they provide.

Equipment and Clothing

Choose skis and boots made for touring or mountaineering. Narrow racing skis won't provide enough surface area to break trail. Low shoes won't give enough ankle support. Before you rent or borrow equipment, check for fit and suitability for wilderness use. Equipment that fits both you and park conditions can make or break your trip.

Winter temperatures are severe in Yellowstone. Prepare for changing conditions by wearing clothes in several adjustable layers. It is as important to prevent overheating as it is to prevent chilling.

Be sure your clothing includes a windproof hooded outer layer with wool or other insulated garments underneath. Wool or synthetic trousers and long underwear will help to keep your legs warm and dry in deep snow. Wind or rain pants are lightweight and provide extra warmth on windy days. Avoid cotton jeans and sweatshirts. Thick wool socks and gaiters over boots help to keep your feet warm and dry. Wear gloves or wool mittens with shells that breathe to allow moisture to escape from sweaty hands.

Since you lose more heat through your head than any other part of your body, wear a face mask-style stocking cap or parka hood when you need maximum protection. Dark sunglasses are a must for sunny days. High altitude sunlight reflected from snow is much more intense than at lower elevations; snowblindness may occur if sunglasses are not worn. Apply sunscreen lotion to exposed skin to avoid sunburn.

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History

A Brief History of Yellowstone

Adapted from an original article by Aubrey L. Haines, Park Historian 1959-1969

In the truest sense, the history of this park covers only a little more than 150 years, for our written record had its origin in the vague information Native Americans gave explorers as Lewis and Clark were toiling up the Missouri River on the journey across the continent. And yet, people had lived on the Yellowstone Plateau for a very long time.

Early Human Use

A projectile point unearthed a few miles from park headquarters indicates that Native Americans may have hunted where the town of Gardiner, Montana now stands as much as 5,000 years ago. The discovery of ancient campsites and stone articles within the area of the park, and in mountains and valleys around it, hints strongly that people have lived here for most of the 8,500 years since the last ice age.

At the opening of the historic period, the only Native Americans making their home in the park area were the "Sheep eaters" (whose name indicates their staple food, not their tribe). They were a mixed group of Shoshone and Bannock Indians who lacked the horses and guns necessary to compete with their neighbors and had retreated into the mountains.

Fur Trappers Arrive in Yellowstone

The fur trapper John Colter appears to have been the first explorer to see this land of hot springs and geysers. He probably passed through it during the winter of 1807-08, while searching for customers for a trading post established by Manuel Lisa, lower down the Yellowstone River. The fur trade flourished briefly in the Rocky Mountains, bringing such men as Jim Bridger, Joe Meek, Daniel Potts, Osborne Russell and Warren Angus Ferris into the area that is now Yellowstone Park. A growing scarcity of fine furs, coupled with changes in fashion, brought the fur trade to an end about 1840. Trappers disappeared from the Yellowstone Plateau, leaving it a nearly forgotten wilderness.

Miners Explore Yellowstone

The discovery of gold in neighboring Montana brought miners to the upper Yellowstone country in 1863. In the years that followed, they established a chain of crude settlements and isolated claims up the Yellowstone and Lamar rivers to the headwaters of the Clarks Fork River. Some of the geologic wonders that had been known to the fur trappers were rediscovered, and interest in the geyser regions was rekindled.

Establishment of the Park

In 1869 a different type of exploration, based on curiosity rather than profit, began. The first group to come into the Yellowstone country for the sole purpose of seeing it was the Folsom-Cook-Peterson party. The Washburn-Langford-Doane party did more thorough exploration the following year. The writing and lecturing done by members of this second expedition resulted in an exploration by the United States Geological Survey of the Territories in 1871. From that came a recognition of the superlative nature of the Yellowstone "wonder", and the United States Congress was persuaded to set aside 2.2 million acres as The Yellowstone National Park on March 1, 1872.

Managing the New Park

The new park was placed in the care of a superintendent, who was left without funds for its maintenance and without laws for its protection. The four superintendents who followed him were likewise incapable of adequately developing and protecting the park, so that the job of managing it for the nation was given to the United States Army.

From 1886 until 1918, that trust was ably handled. Officers of the Corps of Engineers completed the necessary public works, while soldiers stationed at key points brought respect for law and order with the assistance of hardy scouts.

The National Park Service

On August 26, 1916, Congress authorized the National Park Service. Under it, the park was administered by a superintendent, assisted by a corps of rangers, who had the powers of civilian policemen. The new form of management has proven successful, allowing Yellowstone National Park to serve as an unrivaled vacation land; a place to see nature's grandest works, do some wholesome, refreshing things, and leave with your spirits lifted and viewpoints broadened. The proof of the value in this venture lies in the marvelous growth of the National Park System in this country and its influence throughout the world.

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Reservation Information

Campgrounds in Yellowstone

AmFac Parks & Resorts operate five of Yellowstone's campgrounds. Only these five campgrounds accept reservations. Please call (307) 344-7311 for more reservation information about camping at the following locations:

  • Bridge Bay Campground: open from mid-May to mid-September - $15.00
  • Canyon Campground: open from early June to early September - $15.00
  • Grant Village Campground: open from mid-June to early October - $15.00
  • Madison Campground: open from early May to late October - $15.00
  • Fishing Bridge RV Park: open from mid-May to mid-September - $27.00

Showers and laundries are available at Canyon, Grant Village, and Fishing Bridge RV Park. Fishing Bridge RV Park is the only campground offering water, sewer, and electrical hookups; it is for hard-sided vehicles only (no tents or tent trailers). Please note that Golden Access and Golden Age discounts do not apply at Fishing Bridge RV Park.

Seven of Yellowstone's campgrounds are operated by the National Park Service and are on a first-come, first-served basis. During the height of the tourist season (late June through mid-August), these seven campgrounds are full by late morning so get a site early in the day. NPS-operated campgrounds are located at:

  • Mammoth: open year-round - $12.00
  • Norris: open from mid-May to late September - $12.00
  • Indian Creek: open from early June to mid-September - $10.00
  • Lewis Lake: open from early June to late October - $10.00
  • Pebble Creek: open from early June to the end of September - $10.00
  • Slough Creek: open from late May to late October - $10.00
  • Tower Falls: open from mid-May to the end of September - $10.00

Group camping areas are available at Madison, Grant, and Bridge Bay campgrounds from late May through closing date for large organized groups with a designated leader such as youth groups, educational groups, etc. The fees range form $35 - $60 per night depending on the size of the group. Advance reservations are required and can be made beginning January 1 by writing Amfac Parks and Resorts, P.O. Box 165, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 or by calling (307) 344-7311.

Holders of Golden Age and Access permits will be given a 50% discount on camping fees; this discount does not apply to Fishing Bridge RV Park.

Backpacking in Yellowstone

Yellowstone has a designated backcountry campsite system. A Backcountry Use Permit is required for all overnight stays. Each designated campsite has a maximum limit for the number of people and stock allowed per night. The maximum stay per campsite varies from 1 to 3 nights per trip. Campfires are permitted only in established fire pits. Wood fires are not allowed in some backcountry campsites. A food storage pole is provided at most designated campsites so that food and attractants may be secured from bears. Neither hunting nor firearms are allowed in Yellowstone's backcountry.

Permits may be obtained only in person and no more than 48 hours in advance of your trip. Permits are available from most ranger stations and visitor centers. In order to obtain the best information on trail conditions, permits should be obtained from the ranger station or visitor center nearest to the area where your trip is to begin. Backcountry Use Permits are valid only for the itinerary and dates specified. Backcountry travelers must have their permits in possession while in the backcountry.

Advance Reservations for Backcountry Campsites

Although permits must be obtained in person no more than 48 hours in advance, backcountry campsites may be reserved in advance. Requests for reservations must be submitted by mail or in person. They cannot be made over the phone or by fax. Reservations are booked on a first-come, first-served basis. A confirmation notice, not a permit, is given or mailed to the camper. This confirmation notice must then be converted to the actual permit not more than 48 hours in advance of the first camping date. Details are provided on the confirmation notice. The reservation fee is $15 regardless of the number of nights out or the number of people involved. The fee is not refundable. To receive the forms to make an advance reservation, write: National Park Service, Attention: Backcountry Office, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. Or you may call (307) 344-2160 or (307) 344-2163 to request forms.

Permits and Reservations Made Less than 48 Hours in Advance

Because only a portion of the approximately 300 backcountry campsites are available for advance reservations, you may choose to wait until you arrive in the park to reserve your site(s) and obtain your permit. The $15 fee applies only to reservations made more than 48 hours in advance of the start of your trip.

Where to Get Your Permit

During the summer season (June - August), permits are available 7 days a week between 8 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. at the following locations:

  • Bechler Ranger Station;
  • Canyon Ranger Station/Visitor Center;
  • Grant Village Visitor Center;
  • Lake Ranger Station;
  • Mammoth Ranger Station/Visitor Center;
  • Old Faithful Ranger Station;
  • South Entrance Ranger Station;
  • Tower Ranger Station;
  • West Entrance Ranger Station.

In addition, permits may sometimes be obtained from rangers on duty at the Northeast Entrance, East Entrance, and Bridge Bay Ranger Station. However, these rangers have other duties and may not be available to provide assistance at all times.

During the spring, fall, and winter seasons, ranger stations and visitor centers do not have set hours. To obtain a Backcountry Use Permit during these seasons, check the office hours posted at the nearest ranger station or visitor center.

Several commercial businesses offer guided overnight (backpacking) trips into Yellowstone's backcountry. These businesses would obtain the Backcountry Use Permits for trips that they provide.

Overnight Ski Trips

A Backcountry Use Permit is required for all overnight ski trips. Contact a park ranger at a ranger station or visitor center before you begin a ski trip whether for a few hours or several days. Trip planning should include allowances for limited daylight, snow conditions, temperature extremes, and the number of people in the group, and their experience and physical condition. Overnight ski and snowshoe trips during December and January are difficult due to short days, extreme temperatures, and soft snow. Learn as much as you can about winter survival, and talk with park rangers before you leave on any trip.

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