Managing Editor:
James Perry

Theodore Roosevelt first came to the Dakota Territory in September 1883 to hunt bison. Before returning home to New York, he became interested in the cattle business and established the Maltese Cross Ranch partnership. The next year he returned to the badlands and started a second open-range ranch, the Elkhorn. Roosevelt witnessed the decline in wildlife and saw the grasslands destroyed due to overgrazing. Today, the colorful North Dakota badlands provide the scenic backdrop to the park that memorializes the 26th president for his enduring contributions to the conservation of our nation's resources. The area was first established as a memorial park in 1947. It gained national park status in 1978. The Little Missouri River has shaped this 70,448-acre park, home to a variety of plants and animals.

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General Information

Established as Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park: April 25, 1947
North Unit added to memorial park: June 12, 1948
Redesignated a national park: November 10, 1978

Boundary changes: June 10, 1948; June 12, 1948; March 24, 1956; November 6, 1963; November 10, 1978; and September 13, 1995.

Wilderness designated November 10, 1978.

Location

South Unit is near Medora, ND, in Billings Co.; North Unit is near Watford City, ND, in McKenzie Co.; the remote Elkhorn Ranch site is between the two units along the Little Missouri River.

Address

Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Box 7
Medora, ND 58645

Telephone

South Unit (701) 623-4466 (Primary park phone number)
North Unit (701) 842-2333

Visitation

Highest in June, July, and August. Visitation is increasing during May and September; lowest November to February.

Operating Hours & Seasons

Open all year; portions of the South Unit Scenic Loop Drive and North Unit Scenic Road may be closed in winter due to snow and ice.

Visitor center operations:

Medora Visitor Center (South Unit): open daily, mid-June through Labor Day, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (MDT). Open daily remainder of year except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. (MDT).

Painted Canyon Visitor Center (South Unit): open daily mid-June through Labor Day, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. (MDT) plus April to mid-June and September through mid-November, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (MDT).

North Unit Visitor Center: open daily, Memorial Day through September, 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (CDT). Open weekends and most weekdays the rest of the year. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day.

Climate & Recommended Clothing

Summers are warm with temperatures in the 80s and 90s with a few days into the 100s in some years. Evenings can be cool. Average maximum: July is 87.1¼F and August is 86.7¼F. Average minimum: July, 54.5¡F and August is 52.4¡F. Annual precipitation is 15 inches. Winters are generally cold. We recommend: layers of clothing, especially in spring and fall; rain gear in spring; hat for sun protection in summer.

Directions

The North and South units are in western North Dakota. The South Unit Visitor Center is located in Medora just off Interstate 94, 135 miles west of Bismarck, North Dakota. The Painted Canyon Visitor Center is located 7 miles east of Medora just off I-94. The North Unit Visitor Center is located 16 miles south of Watford City along U.S. Highway 85. The distance between Medora at the South Unit and the visitor center in the North Unit is 70 miles via I-94 and U. S. Highway 85.

Transportation

To Park: Passenger vehicle is the main mode of transportation. There is air service to the North Dakota towns of Bismarck, Dickinson, and Williston. There is bus transportation along I-94; there is train service into Williston.

In the park, use personal vehicles, bicycles, and charter bus.

Fees, Costs, & Rates

Entrance Fees

Seven-day entrance pass: Good for both Units; $5 per person, maximum $10/vehicle
Annual park permit: $20
Golden Eagle Passport: $50

Commercial Tour Vehicles:

(1-6 passenger capacity) $25 plus $5 per person fee
(7-15 passenger capacity) $50 (no per person fee)
(16-25 passenger capacity) $60 (no per person fee)
(over 25 capacity) $150 (no per person fee)

Camping: $10 per unit per day

Group Camping: $2 per person/day, minimum $20/day
South Unit Horse Camping Fee: $1 per horse/day

Golden Eagle Passport

The Golden Eagle Passport is an entrance pass to any national park, monument, historical site, recreation area, and national wildlife refuge that charges an entrance fee. It is a great convenience for those who plan on visiting several different areas that charge special fees. It is valid for one year from the purchase date. A Golden Eagle Passport may be purchased for $50 at any National Park Service entrance fee area or by mail. To order by mail, send check or money order (no cash, please) to:

National Park Service
1100 Ohio Drive, SW
Room 138
Washington, DC 20242
Attention: Golden Eagle Passport

Where entry is by private vehicle, the Golden Eagle Passport will admit the passholder as well as any passengers. Where entry by private vehicle is not possible, the pass will admit the passholder, spouse, children and parents.

The Golden Eagle Passport will not reduce use fees, such as those for camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, or cave tours. It covers entrance fees only.

Golden Age Passport

The Golden Age Passport is a lifetime entrance pass for those United States residents 62 years or older. These may be purchased at any National Park Service entrance fee area for a one-time processing fee of $10. The Golden Age Passport cannot be purchased by mail or telephone. Proof of age and citizenship or permanent residence must be shown at the time of purchase.

The Golden Age Passport will admit the passholder and any passengers in a private vehicle. When entrance is not via private vehicle, the pass will admit the passholder as well as children, spouse, and parents.

The Golden Age Pass grants a 50% discount to the holder on any federal use fees charged for things such as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, or tours. It does not, however, reduce the price of special recreation permit fees or fees for concessions.

Golden Access Passport

The Golden Access Passport is a free entrance pass to any national park, monument, historic site, recreation area, and national wildlife refuge for those who are blind or permanently disabled. The Golden Access passport may be obtained at any National Park Service entrance fee area. Proof of a medically determined disability and eligibility for receiving benefits under federal law is necessary at purchase.

The Golden Access Passport will admit the passholder and any passengers in a private vehicle. Where entrance is not by vehicle, the pass will admit the passholder, spouse, children and parents.

The Golden Access Passport also provides a 50% discount on any federal use fees charged for services and facilities. It does not cover special recreation permit fees or fees charged for concessions.

All passes described above are non-transferable.

Facilities & Opportunities

Visitor Center/Exhibits:

Medora Visitor Center: at entrance to South Unit.

Painted Canyon Visitor Center: 7 miles east of Medora along I-94.

North Unit Visitor Center: at entrance to North Unit.

Trails, Roads

South Unit: South Unit Scenic Loop Drive; Ridgeline Nature Trail; Coal Vein Nature Trail; Painted Canyon Trail; Jones Creek Trail; Petrified Forest Trail; Lone Tree Trail; Paddock Creek Trail; and Talkington Trail. Connecting with the North and South Unit is the Maah-Daah-Hey trail, which is under construction and scheduled for completion the fall of 1998.

North Unit: North Unit Scenic Drive; Caprock Coulee Nature Trail; Little Mo Nature Trail; Achenback Trail; North Achenback Trail; Upper Caprock Coulee Trail; Buckhorn Trail; and Prairie Dog Town Trail.

Programs/Activities

A full complement of regularly scheduled programs including talks, evening campfire presentations, nature walks, and long hikes are offered June through mid-September. Guided tours of Theodore Roosevelt's Maltese Cross Cabin are offered in summer, while the tours are self-guided in winter. Ski tours in winter may be offered if snow conditions permit. Educational programs for schools and groups may be scheduled throughout the year.

Lodging and camping facilities

Lodging is not available in the park.

Camping: Cottonwood Campground in the South Unit and North Unit Juniper Campground in the North Unit; no reservations; no hook-ups. Group camping is available in both units; reservations are required. Lodging as well as camping facilities with RV amenities of water, sewer, and electrical hook-ups are available in the area.

Food/supplies

Although there are none within the park, you'll find a variety of restaurants and grocery stores near the park or within a short drive.

Other Concessions/NPS-Managed Visitor Facilities and Opportunities:

Publications, maps, postcards, posters, and other visitor convenience items are sold in the North Unit, Painted Canyon, and Medora visitor centers by the Theodore Roosevelt Nature and History Association (Box 167, Medora, ND 58645). Peaceful Valley Trail Rides, Inc. concession provides trail rides in the South Unit. Other businesses offer trail rides in the North Unit and canoeing. Additional museums are located in Medora and surrounding communities.

Accessibility

All visitor centers, wayside exhibits, campground amphitheaters, and the Maltese Cross Cabin are accessible. Both campgrounds have accessible campsites. The first portion of Little Mo Nature Trail is paved.

Special Needs

There are parking areas at each visitor center for buses and trailers. Pull-outs along park roads accommodate longer vehicles. Orientation film shown at Painted Canyon and North Unit visitor centers can be captioned. Printed text is available at the South Unit Visitor Center. Access to the Elkhorn Ranch site may require 4-wheel drive and may be inaccessible at certain times of the year due to weather and road conditions.

Recommended Activities & Park Use

Visit the park visitor centers to see the orientation films and museum, or visit the Maltese Cross Cabin near the Medora Visitor Center. Join a guided talk or walk or attend an evening program; drive the scenic park roads; view the wildlife; do some bird watching, hiking, and camping.

The park is noted for opportunities to see bison, elk, mule, white-tailed deer, pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs, coyote, and other small mammals as well as a variety of birds including golden eagles. Wild (feral) horses can be seen in the South Unit and longhorn steers in the North Unit.

Reservations & Permits

Camping is on a first-come, first-served basis. Group camping requires a reservation. For the Roundup Group Horse Camp in the South Unit as well as the North Unit Group site, reservations are accepted beginning the first work day in March. A free backcountry permit is required for overnight camping. Reservations for school groups and other educational trips should be made three weeks prior to planned visit. For additional information concerning reservations, special use or filming permits, call (701) 623-4466.

Basic Visit Recommendation

South Unit: a minimum of four hours is recommended to visit the Medora Visitor Center and drive the 36-mile loop road; North Unit: a minimum of three hours. If time is spent taking one or both of the short, self-guided nature walks in either unit, add two hours. Longer hikes take all day. Driving distance between the North and South Units is 70 miles. At least two days is recommended to visit both the North and South units plus walk some of the short nature trails. Topography and landscape are different between the North and South Unit.

Special Events & Programs

Orientation films are provided year-round. Interpretive talks, walks, hikes, children's activities, and evening programs are scheduled early June to mid-September. Special programs may be presented throughout the year. Call the park for specific dates and times at (701) 623-4466.

Visitor Impact

Information concerning park access plus closures of roads, trails and park sections is available at park entrance stations, visitor centers, and park headquarters. Precipitation from fast-moving prairie storms may limit travel on established trails and backcountry routes due to slippery conditions or rain-filled streams and dry washes. The Little Missouri River can prevent access to the Elkhorn Ranch site. Summer temperatures reaching into the low 100s can limit travel, as can winter blizzard conditions with extreme cold temperatures.

Adjacent Visitor Attractions

Medora Musical (nightly during summer), Little Missouri National Grasslands (drives, sightseeing), Chateau de Mores State Historic Site in Medora (tours), Dinosaur Museum in Dickinson. From Medora, Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site is 125 miles and Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site is 135 miles.

Additional Information

Write Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Box 7, Medora, ND 58645 or call (701) 623-4466.

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History

Park Proposal

Within a short time after the death of Theodore Roosevelt on January 6, 1919, proposals were made to establish a memorial in his honor. Various studies took place across the country that included ideas for national parks, monuments, wildlife refuges, and scenic roads as well as state parks. Sylvane Ferris, a friend and business associate of Roosevelt during his cattle ranching days in the Dakota Badlands, appointed a committee to pick a site; Medora was selected. The 1921 North Dakota legislature instructed its representatives in Congress to assist by setting land aside for a park.

In 1929, a party of 40 explored the Little Missouri Badlands to outline an area for a Roosevelt National Park. This tour resulted in the formation of the Roosevelt Memorial National Park Association (later, the Great North Dakota Association). The following year, a tour of "cowboys and Congressmen," a larger group of federal, state, and regional officials plus interested parties and news media conducted an inspection camping trip through the "Grand Canyon of the Little Missouri" that cemented the park idea. One early plan called for a 2,030-square-mile park. But this proposal was not without its critics since it included too much good stock land for the liking of local ranchers.

Roger Toll, superintendent of Rocky Mountain National Park, submitted a report on the proposed park to National Park Service Director Stephen T. Mather in 1928 in which he favored the establishment of a small national monument stating, "A national park does not seem to be justified."

Again, various studies, proposals and counter-proposals for a park took place. Some suggested a national forest be established. Then came the "dirty '30s." Drought, overgrazing, and crop failures forced many homesteaders to sell their land to the federal government for as little as $2 per acre. In western North Dakota, land was acquired mainly for setting up leased grazing and rehabilitation. Today, most of what was purchased under the auspices of the Resettlement Act is now part of the Little Missouri National Grasslands. A portion of these new federal holdings was earmarked for a park. In 1934, a cooperative agreement to start a Roosevelt Regional Park Project was signed by the Resettlement Administration, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), National Park Service and the state of North Dakota. The federal government wanted the project to become a state park.

The CCC operations began immediately and were administered by National Park Service employees. The North and South Roosevelt Regional Parks had their own camps. By 1935, these sites were designated the Roosevelt Recreation Demonstration Area (RDA). Development by workers from the CCC, as well as Works Projects Administration (WPA) and Emergency Relief Administration (ERA), included construction of roads, trails, picnic areas, campgrounds and buildings.

All projects ended in 1941. Who would accept management responsibility for this land was still uncertain. When North Dakota's state government announced it did not want the land as a state park, approval was obtained in 1942 to retain the area for the purpose of study for possible inclusion into the National Park System. North Dakota Rep. William Lemke championed the fight to establish a national park, an action that met resistance from National Park Service officials. The next few years saw further studies and political maneuvering.

In November 1946, the area was officially transferred to the United States Fish and Wildlife Service as Theodore Roosevelt National Wildlife Refuge after legislation to establish a park was vetoed because some felt the area did not possess those qualities that merit national park ranking. Undaunted, Congressman Lemke pressed on. Finally, on April 25, 1947, after several compromises, President Truman signed the bill (PL-38) that created Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park. This included lands that roughly make up the South Unit and the Elkhorn Ranch site today. The North Unit was added to the memorial park on June 12, 1948. Additional boundary revisions were made in later years.

As a memorial park, it was the only one of its kind in the National Park System. Eventually, in addition to a connection with a president, the land was recognized for its diverse cultural and natural resources. On November 10, 1978, the area was given national park status when President Carter signed Public Law 95-625 that changed the memorial park to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. This same law placed 29,920 acres of the park under the National Wilderness Preservation System.

Today, the 70,448-acre Theodore Roosevelt National Park is home to a variety of plants and animals, and continues to memorialize the 26th president for his enduring contributions to the safekeeping and protection of our nation's resources.

Maltese Cabin

At the dawn of the 20th century in 1901, Theodore Roosevelt became this nations 26th president and ultimately one of its greatest conservationists. It was here in the North Dakota Badlands in 1883 that he first arrived to hunt bison. Before he left, he had acquired primary interests in the Maltese Cross or Chimney Butte Ranch. Roosevelt thrived on the vigorous outdoor lifestyle, and at the Maltese Cross he actively participated in the life of a working cowboy.

The Maltese Cross Ranch cabin was originally located about seven miles south of Medora in the wooded bottom-lands of the Little Missouri River. At Roosevelt's request, ranch managers Sylvane Ferris and Bill Merrifield built a one and one-half story cabin complete with a shingle roof and cellar.

Constructed of durable ponderosa pine logs that had been cut and floated down the Little Missouri River, the cabin was considered somewhat of a "mansion" in its day with wooden floors and three separate rooms (kitchen, living room, and Roosevelt's bedroom). The steeply pitched roof, an oddity on the northern plains, created an upstairs sleeping loft for the ranch hands.

A number of items in the cabin today belonged to Theodore Roosevelt. Those that did not are from the same period and would be typical furnishings of the day.

A prolific writer, Roosevelt spent many lamp-lit hours laboring at the desk in the living room recording his memoirs and reminiscences of badlands life. The hutch in the living room doubled as a library and fold-out writing table to indulge two of Roosevelts prime passions - reading and writing. The traditional rocking chair in the living room, in all probability Roosevelts, was his favorite piece of furniture. A wicker-lined canvas clothing trunk belonging to him sits in the bedroom.

Roosevelt actively ranched in the badlands until 1887 but maintained ranching interest in the area until 1898. He later developed a conservation program as president that deeply reflected his experiences in the West, where he had become keenly aware of the need to conserve and protect our natural resources.

During Roosevelt's presidency, the Maltese Cross cabin was exhibited in Portland, Oregon and St. Louis. It was then moved to the state capitol grounds in Bismarck. In 1959, the cabin was relocated to its present site and renovated.

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Reservation Information

Camping is on a first-come, first-served basis. Group camping requires reservation. For the Roundup Group Horse Camp in the South Unit as well as the North Unit Group site, reservations are required and accepted beginning the first work day in March. A free backcountry permit is required for overnight camping. Reservations for school groups and other educational trips should be made three weeks prior to planned visit. For additional information concerning reservations, special use, or filming permits, call (701) 623-4466.

Backcountry Permits

Persons wishing to camp overnight in the backcountry must register and obtain a free backcountry use permit; entrance fees still apply. The permit serves two purposes. First, if properly filled out, it may provide important information that will assist in locating you in an emergency, that is, if you follow your trip plan. Second, the permit provides data to manage the park's resources and visitor use. There are no established backcountry campsites at this time. Camping in the backcountry is limited to 14 consecutive days.

For the South Unit (and the Elkhorn Ranch), backcountry permits must be obtained at the Medora Visitor Center. For the North Unit, permits must be obtained at the North Unit Visitor Center. When you have completed your backcountry camping trip, please stop by the visitor center to advise rangers of your safe return.

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