Side
Roads
Colorado
High-Country
Destinations
by Jim Elder
Most of the 4,500 men, women and children at Camp Hale
found time for at least one trail ride. Some took time for
more, choosing from the 30 different routes offered. And
those are merely the nearby 4x4 trails.
Colorado claims to have the most and best four-wheeling
in the United States. Utah and California might dispute that
claim, but a book -- many books -- could only begin to cover
all the possibilities in the Mile High State. No wonder,
with the Continental Divide dominating the western third of
the state from border to border. Of the 68 peaks taller than
14,000 feet in the lower 48 states, 54 are in Colorado.
These mountains also lured the gold and silver seekers who
built trails, roads and railroads. Most of the mining camps
are gone or only ghost towns, but the trails remain to
provide adventure for Jeep owners.
These routes range from paved scenic drives to highly
technical
low-gear/low-range expeditions. Most are marked. Detailed
guide books and maps can be bought in local bookstores,
service stations and even in some grocery stores in the
mountain towns. And the local folks are friendly, as long as
visitors Tread Lightly! (See Map
below, right).
Many of the trails are friendly, too. That means ratings
of 1 to 5 on a scale of 1 to 10. "One" is a graded dirt
road, easily driven with two-wheel drive except on ice or
snow. "Five" means any or all of the following: ruts or
rocks, no steps, water crossings up to 12 inches, passable
mud, grades up to 15 degrees, and sidehills up to 20
degrees, four-wheel drive required, but no special
modifications or winches.
Boreas Pass
Rating: 2
Boreas Pass is a scenic but sensible warm-up for Colorado
trails. A gravel-surfaced road that was once a railroad bed,
this trail runs northwest from Como off U.S. 285, over the
top at 11,482 feet, and down to Breckenridge on Colorado
9.
What it lacks in difficulty is made up for in scenery. It
is an easy morning run from the Denver area, down U.S. 285,
over Boreas to a lunch break at the summit. One could
backtrack for another view of the scenery or drive up
Colorado 9 to I-70, then east to Idaho Springs and the Mount
Evans summit road, which is paved, but at 14,264 feet is the
highest road in North America. Nice place to watch the sun
setting over Hawaii. Not quite, but you can see forever, in
any direction.
Georgia Pass
Rating: 4
Another route from Breckenridge is Georgia Pass. This
takes off Colorado 9 north of Breckenridge on Tiger Road.
The top of Georgia Pass is a good place for a weather and
reality check. Weather, because you are on lightning strike
terrain. The weather and reality -- your driving skills and
comfort level -- should determine where you go from there.
You can backtrack to Highway 9; descend on a two-wheel-drive
road to U.S. 285; or head northeast atop the Continental
Divide on the Glacier Ridge trail.
Rain, thunderstorms, mud, snow or ice can make Glacier
Ridge a toe-curler or even whiten your knuckles. In dry
conditions it is spectacular. You can then descend on the
Georgia Pass trail or go down the Middle Fork of the Swan
River. Most of this option would be no more difficult that
the ascent -- 4 in decent weather -- but four miles from the
divide lies S.O.B.
S.O.B. is aptly named. A short but severe section
requires skill, sometimes a spotter, and determination. It
is possible to become stuck going downhill.
Ptarmigan Pass and McAllister Gulch
Ratings: 4
Compared to S.O.B., Ptarmigan Pass and McAllister Gulch
are rehabilitation and relaxation. The route leaves I-70 at
the top of Vail Pass on a road marked "Shrine Pass." About
10 miles later, a left turn leads to Ptarmigan Pass and down
to Camp Hale. From there, you can loop north up to
McAllister Gulch and the Shrine Pass road. The Turkey Creek
road and Highway 24 are easy scenic drives back to the main
highways.
Mount Antero
Rating: 5
Mount Antero is 14,269 feet in the sky. The trail reaches
to within 169 feet of the summit. It is rated at 5 because
of steep grades, tight switchbacks and narrow stretches with
nothing between the vehicle and an endless roll down the
treeless (above timberline) slope if something went wonky
with the vehicle or the driver.
Antero is reached by turning off U.S. 285 onto County
162, south of Johnson Village. The same trail can also take
you to Baldwin Lakes, a less intimidating but certainly
rewarding destination. The locals often drive to the Baldwin
Lakes area for lunch, then tackle Antero if the weather
looks good and the vehicles are all running and braking in
top form.
Mosquito Pass
Rating: 4 to 5
If Antero exceeds your comfort and confidence level,
Mosquito Pass might be a better choice. At 13,186 feet, it
is the highest drivable pass in Colorado, and it offers the
above-timberline vistas of Antero without the trickier
switchbacks and extreme steep sections. Long, narrow,
don't-even-think-about-
getting-over-the-edge stretches might be intimidating to
extreme acrophobics, but the trail is not technically
demanding.
Mosquito Pass can be reached from the west by climbing
east out of Leadville. From the east, take U.S. 285 to
Fairplay, Colorado 9 to Alma, and up from there. The pass is
rated 4/5. It is a 5 if one takes the alternate descent to
Leadville -- take the right fork about a mile west of the
summit for the bird's eye gulch trail. Bird's eye has more
rocks, and might have mud. Adventurous four-wheeling.
The scenery and adventure of high-country Colorado
four-wheeling fill the cup to overflowing. But there is
another reward in these mountains. The miners who pioneered
the trails left towns -- now ghost towns -- scattered among
the peaks. The same maps that show the trails indicate the
townsites. They echo with names like Como, St. Elmo, Tincup,
Pandora, Eureka, Bachelor, Bonanza, Buckskin Joe, Mudsill,
Stumptown, and many more -- each with a story of boom and
bust.
Maps
This report is not meant to include detailed route
instructions. Even if space allowed, trail conditions change
with the seasons and the years, and regulations also change.
It would be unwise to head for the high backcountry without
up-to-date maps and trail reports. Check with local U.S.
Forest Service District offices for maps and information.
Talk to the locals. And don't go alone, even with a cellular
phone, into isolated areas.
For more information on Colorado and the area's National
Forest destinations, check out these websites:
www.fs.fed.us/r2
www.fs.fed.us/recreation/
www.colorado.com
www.off-road.com
www.4x4now.com
www.gorp.com/gorp/
location/co/co.htm
Good sources for books and maps include:
www.4x4now.com
www.pointswestoutfitters.
com
www.coloradomaps.com
Any of several ghost town guidebooks would add to your
adventure. They are widely available in local stores.
Copyright (c) 1998 Jim Elder. All rights
reserved.
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Camp Jeep
by Jim Elder
"Activities
included white-water rafting, mountain hiking and biking,
fly fishing, archery, and an extensive program of product
and engineering exhibits and seminars."
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Camp Jeep
1998.
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"It's A Jeep Thing -- You Wouldn't Understand." That was
a popular T-shirt and bumper sticker motto at Camp Jeep. The
4,500 Jeep loyalists understand. They came to Camp Hale in
1,500 Jeep vehicles -- Grand Cherokees, Cherokees,
Wranglers, CJ's, Flatfenders and Jeepsters again this year,
turning the former training camp into a small city 9,000
feet high in the Colorado Rockies.
In 1942, Camp Hale was built in seven months to train the
14,000 skiers, cowboys, climbers and mule skinners who had
volunteered to form the 10th Mountain Division. National Ski
Patrol founder "Minnie" Dole had recommended to President
Roosevelt that a highly trained mountain and winter warfare
force would be needed in Europe and (worst case) for defense
on this continent.
Training included skiing, mountain climbing, mule and
horse packing, and cold-weather operations, along with the
basic training for infantry and light artillery. The camp
also became a testing site for specialized winter and
mountain equipment -- the U.S. Army was woefully unprepared
and unequipped for fighting in harsh terrain and
climates.
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The 10th Mountain Division
exhibit at Camp Jeep.
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Some of the men were European emigrants, drawn to the U.S.
by the ski industry, or men who had fled Germany and Austria
during Hitler's rise to power. And many of the 10th Mountain
men came home to become principals in the postwar ski
industry, including the founders of Vail, which was just
another Colorado mountain valley until the ski troops
"discovered" it during training maneuvers.
Even with 32 new Jeep Grand Cherokees and 1,500 other
postwar Jeep vehicles at Camp Hale for the 1998 Camp Jeep,
the presence of the 10th Mountain Division lingered, kept
alive by the veterans who man the historical exhibit at Camp
Jeep. The exhibit included equipment used in the legendary
Italian campaign, where the 10th captured strategic areas
considered impossible by regular Army units. And there was a
perfectly restored World War II Jeep, the object of much
attention and photography from Camp Jeepers.
Camp Jeep Today
This year's Camp Jeep was much more than history,
however. Activities included white-water rafting, mountain
hiking and biking, fly fishing, archery, and an extensive
program of product and engineering exhibits and seminars.
But the main draw was Jeep 101, featuring 32 all-new 1999
Grand Cherokees.
Jeep 101 was a driving challenge/training course,
highlighting the first-ever Quadra-Drive all-wheel
powertrain. The dips, short steep climbs and descents,
sidehills, ditches, rockpiles and log bridges gave the Camp
Jeepers a chance to experience the almost unstoppable
all-wheel system that delivers power whenever it is
needed.
Adjacent to the Jeep 101 circuits was a driving
comparison test area where attendees drove the new Jeep and
"brand X" models up slick metal ramps and through other
traction challenges. The results impressed even the
flatfender traditionalists. But not so much that the 1,500
Jeep vehicles that had assembled at Camp Hale rested in the
parking lot.
Guided off-highway trips on 30 different routes were
offered and "sold out" each day. These trips varied in
length and challenge, ranging from scenic drives to
low-range creeping over exciting, but not dangerous, trails.
All backroad and off-road adventures adhered to Tread
Lightly! standards.
Back at camp, there were large tents with displays of
Mopar accessories, product engineering exhibits, vintage
Jeep vehicles and concept vehicles. Roundtable seminars
featuring question-and-answer discussions with Jeep
engineers were popular. These sessions were model-specific,
with meetings for Wranglers, CJ's, Wagoneers, Cherokees,
Comanches, YJ and TJ's, and even Grand Wagoneers.
Some campers found time for fly casting lessons, Magellan
GPS instructional hikes, mountain biking and golf. There
were demonstrations of camp cooking, falconry and mountain
boarding, a new sport which uses a contraption which is a
melange of snowboard, surfboard and skateboard.
Little Jeepers had a full plate of activities to keep
them busy. One tent featured crafts, another puppetmaking
and puppet shows. There were pedal-Jeep vehicles and visits
with Smokey the Bear and Woodsy Owl. A portable planetarium
was another popular attraction, for children and adults.
Archery and soccer were other diversions.
Full plates were also offered at the Jeep Grille, where
breakfast, lunch and food for trail lunches could be
purchased. Food was served during the Saturday evening
concert featuring Kenny Loggins. The U.S. Forest Service was
present with exhibits focusing on fire ecology, noxious
weeds and ethical land-use. National Geographic presented
mountain photo displays and seminars.
Other magazine exhibits included Sunset,
Backpacker, House Beautiful, Smart Money,
Men's Health, and Martha Stewart Living. The
National Outdoor Leadership School had seminars sponsored by
Outside magazine. Country Living magazine
organized a tree-planting project. And the men from
Warn were there with demonstrations of winching
techniques.
Something for everyone. An organizational and logistics
miracle. It took 800 workers three weeks to set up the camp.
Afterwards it took five days to return this valley to the
quiet it has enjoyed since the 10th Mountain went off to
Italy.
Colorado High-Country Passes

Colorado offers some of the most scenic
high-country driving in the country, including these six
mountain passes. See Side
Roads (at left) for more
on these trips.
Copyright © 1998 Jim Elder. All
rights reserved.
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