Gearing Up  by Pat Fowler and Keith Breuker "Rod action is generally a matter of personal preference." To begin gearing up for fly fishing, you must first determine the fish you're seeking. That, in turn, determines the size of flies you'll be using, which then dictates the line and rod you'll need to cast those flies. In fly fishing, it's the weight of the line that casts the fly. Larger, more wind-resistant flies require heavier line and therefore a heavier rod. Most beginners start with a midrange 5-, 6-, or 7-weight line/rod combination. The following chart shows the approximate line/rod weights best suited for pursuing certain fish. Line/Rod Wt. Suggested Uses 1/2 panfish, small trout 3-5 medium trout, panfish 6-9 bass, steelhead, bonefish, larger trout, Atlantic salmon 10-12 stripers, small tarpon, bluefish, salmon, steelhead 13-15 tarpon, billfish, tuna Line Selection Most trout anglers prefer 4- to 7-weight lines. Pike, bass, or light saltwater anglers using larger flies might prefer 7- to 10-weight outfits. Advanced anglers using small flies for selective fish might use 1- to 3-weight lines for a delicate presentation. The 11 through 15 weights are big-game tackle. Rod Selection Next select a rod that matches your line. An inexpensive rod will get you started, but as you gain experience you'll appreciate the added performance and quality of higher-priced rods. Try some rods and decide for yourself if better performance justifies a higher asking price. In the end, always obtain the best quality your budget allows. Rod Action A fast-action rod flexes only near the tip when casting. A slow-action flexes its entire length. Rod action is generally a matter of personal preference. You may want to first determine your rod-action preference, then limit your shopping to that type of rod. Your rod should cast easily, and the grip should feel comfortable in your hand. Action types, from left to right: fast, medium, slow Reel Selection Next choose a reel of sufficient line capacity for the line weight you'll be using. Allow for at least 20 yards of backing--more if you're angling for large fish. Backing provides not only extra line for hard-running fish, but a cushion for the line and a larger diameter base for winding the line. Matching the rod, line, and reel will give you a well-balanced outfit. Drag Get the best drag system you can afford. Cost is usually an indicator of drag quality, but there is no better way to judge the quality of a reel's drag than actual fishing conditions. So don't be afraid to seek advice from experienced anglers when choosing a reel. For smaller fish (up to a pound or so) a reel is just a place to store line you're not casting with. Landing larger fish that are strong enough to break your tippet, however, demands a smooth, adjustable drag system. The larger the fish, the more important the drag becomes. The drag adjustment should be easy to locate and should function smoothly. Spools When comparing two reels with similar features, choose the one with the narrower spool. The narrower spool will wind line more evenly, making it less likely to tangle when the fish of a lifetime is rapidly peeling it from your reel. If you plan on fishing a variety of conditions, be sure to carry extra spools with different line weights for quick changes streamside. Direct Drive The most popular type of reel is the direct-drive, with the handle directly connected to the spool. This direct connection allows you to know exactly when you are gaining or losing line. One disadvantage of direct drive, however, is that the handle spins rapidly when a fish runs, posing a hazard to fingers. Anti-reverse reels solve the bruised finger problem and are especially useful for big-game fishing. But they are also more expensive and have more moving parts, increasing their potential for failure. Another reel option is the multiplier reel, which turns the spool more times than the handle so you can recover line quickly. Reels should be cleaned and lubricated, per manufacturer's instructions, at least once a season, more frequently if needed. Waders Bootfoot waders come with the boot attached directly to the wader fabric and are easier to get on and off than stockingfoot waders, which are used with separate boots that need to be laced over the wader. Some claim stockingfoot waders provide more comfort. But if you get bootfoot waders one-half-size larger, and then place a quality insole in the boot, there is a little difference in comfort, and you'll be warmer in cold weather. Sorbethane is a good insole material because it does not absorb moisture and will not compress over time. Some insoles have arch support or heel lifts, like the kind you find in running shoes. Athletic-wear outlets, in fact, are good locations to shop for quality insoles. While felt outer soles are essential for gripping the slippery algae-covered rocks found in many streams, lug soles will suffice for rivers that are mostly sand or mud. Also, lug soles do not pick up snow as felts do, and so provide better traction on land in wintry conditions. Because creasing will reduce wader life, waders should be hung or rolled when not in use. If you roll your waders, dry them first. And always store your waders in a cool, dry place. Sunglasses A pair of polarized sunglasses is essential and will allow you to see fish obscured by surface glare. It will also ease eye strain on sunny days and provide eye protection from errant flies. Vests When you evaluate a vest, wear it and check all the pockets for easy access. The zippers and other closures should work smoothly and be of good quality. A vest should be oversized to allow layered clothing underneath. Clothing For effective stalking, keep clothing colors drab and similar to your surroundings. Layered clothing provides comfort in changing weather conditions. A raincoat should be compact and lightweight so it will fit in your vest pocket and be available when it rains. Hats A fishing hat with a brim all the way around or with a long brim in front provides protection from the elements and some protection from errant casts. It can also help reduce surface glare and can be used for attaching magnifiers or lights to. Flashlights Lightweight pocketsize flashlights are essential if you fish at night. You may wish to consider clip-ons or similar lights for tying knots at night. Landing Net A landing net with a belly made of non-abrasive material will allow you to catch and release big fish more quickly than by hand, giving the fish a better chance of surviving. Insect Net Because it is difficult to determine the body color of a caddis, or to correctly match the size of a mayfly without close observation, many anglers also carry a small net (like ones used in aquariums) for catching insects. You can use these nets for matching the hatch. And when there is no hatch activity, you can use the net to collect samples of what the fish are eating below the surface. Other Useful Accessories A nipper will trim the tag ends of your knots. Some come with built-in points for untangling knots and clearing glue from hook eyes. A scissor-plier combination is a handy tool for pinching split-shot, removing hooks, repairing gear, and making heavy cuts. A thermometer to check water temperature. A hook sharpener will sharpen hooks that are dulled by use. A sharp hook should grab the thumbnail without hesitation when pulled gently, as shown. A pair of hemostats will help you remove hooks. Fly boxes will help you keep your flies sorted and handy for onstream changes. This material in Fly Fisher's Notebook originated in a book called The Complete Pocket Guide to Fly Fishing, which was published through Countrysport Press. If you are interested in having the entire book in the convenient pocket-size form that you can carry in your vest, contact Countrysport Press for a copy. Copyright © 1996 by Pat Fowler and Keith Breuker. Illustrations Copyright © 1996 by Jenny Leggett.