Side Roads
by Jim Elder
For more information on the Oregon Dunes National
Recreation Area and Sand Lake, we recommend these
resources:
Websites:
http://www.gorp.com/
gorp/resource/us_nra/
or_dunes.htm
http://www.ucinet.com/
~bacc/bacdunes.asp
http://www.onroute.com/
destinations/oregon/
oregondunes2.asp
Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area
Siuslaw National Forest
855 Highway 101
Reedsport, Oregon
phone: 541-271 3611
Hebo Ranger District (Sand Lake)
Siuslaw National Forest
31525 Highway 22
Hebo, Oregon 97122
phone: 503-392-3161
Oregon Chapter, U.S. Lighthouse Society
P.O. Box 600
Lakeside, OR 97449
phone: 541-759-3920
Copyright © 1999 Jim Elder. All
rights reserved.
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Coastal Oregon:
Outdoor Playtime Paradise
by Jim Elder
"Stretching almost
50 miles south from Florence to Coos Bay, the Oregon Dunes
NRA offers...more that 10,000 acres of off-highway dune and
beach driving."
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Driving in the Oregon
Dunes.
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In a time when off-road travel and recreation are
sometimes threatened or even restricted, any area open to
4x4 use is to be appreciated.
When that area is also easily accessible, scenic and
exciting, four-wheel-drive owners have cause for
celebration.
The Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, stretching
north and south from Reedsport, Oregon, is such a playtime
paradise.
Stretching almost 50 miles south from Florence to Coos
Bay, the Oregon Dunes NRA offers 30 fishing, swimming and
wildlife watching lakes, 14 hiking trails, 13 campgrounds,
11 beach parking areas, 9 day-use areas, 1 paved dunes
overlook area, a visitor center, and more than 10,000 acres
of off-highway dune and beach driving.
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The Oregon Dunes lies along
the Pacific Coast, stretching north from Coos Bay
to Florence.
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An easy two hours west of Portland is Sand Lake
Recreation Area. At Sand Lake, there are three campgrounds
(a total of 241 sites) and 900 acres of coastal sand dunes,
mostly open to 4x4 fun. Visitors can choose from several
levels of sand-driving challenge. There are areas negotiable
in stock 4x4s, riding on street tires. There are other areas
guaranteed to bog down even the rigs with big fat tires,
aired down. But help is always close at hand; there will be
other sand-drivers eager to push or string out a winch
cable. That's after the obligatory razzing, of course.
More to See and Do
Camping is not limited to the developed campgrounds. Sand
camping -- officially called "dispersed camping" -- is
allowed in the Off Highway Vehicle (OHV) areas. At the
official campgrounds, bathrooms, water, tables and campfire
rings are provided, but no hookups. Horsefall Campground has
shower facilities.
Strong currents and cool water mean that ocean swimming
is not the most popular sport on the Oregon coast, but the
nearby lakes offer warm-season swimming. Boat ramps provide
lake and river access.
There are four-wheel drive owners who secretly admit that
life does exist beyond locking hubs and transfer cases. That
life sometimes includes fishing, and fishing is a prime
attraction on the Oregon coast and in the nearby lakes. The
estuary at Coos Bay offers fishing for shad, striped bass,
sturgeon and winter steelhead. Clamming and crabbing are
popular pursuits.
The inland lakes are stocked with native and imported
species. Due to the variety of water temperatures, bottom
structures, food-chain makeup and lake depth, there is an
amazing diversity of fish populations. Rainbow trout,
cutthroat trout, Chinook salmon, coho salmon, and the unique
searun cutthroat inhabit the colder waters.
In the warmer lakes, large and smallmouth bass, yellow
perch, bullhead, crappie and bluegill are predominant. But
the "cold" lakes and rivers are warm enough, and the "warm"
lakes are cold enough, that trout and bass can often be
found in the same waters. Clams and crabs are found all
along the beaches, bays and estuaries.
Oregon coast veterans focus their fishing according to
the calendar. They cast from the beach and jetties for surf
perch year round. In April and May, rainbow trout are good
bets in the small lakes, and rockfish from jetties. June and
July bring out the ocean fishermen, seeking bottomfish.
Summer and fall are bass, bluegill, crappie and yellow perch
seasons.
Come mid-September, Chinook salmon come into the
tidewaters. January through March is prime time for the
prince of these waters -- the steelhead.
What Else?
There are 14 marked trails for hikers in the Oregon
Dunes. Of course there are beach and dune trails. But there
are also trails through thick forests, boardwalks over
marshy areas, and river shoreline pathways. The shortest
trails are less than a mile long; the longest four
miles.
Even the short trails can provide a rich half-day hike.
The abundance and variety of trees, shrubs, berries and
grasses offer viewing and photography opportunities that
stretch time. Hikers may see tracks of bears, otters,
raccoons, nutria and mink. They might even see those
animals. Beaver houses, beaver dams and stumps, and
sometimes beaver can be found in the marsh areas.
Birds are always seen. Among them are the great blue and
green heron, American bittern, tundra swan, Canada goose,
belted kingfisher, great egret, bald eagle, osprey,
red-tailed hawk and great horned owl. Cinnamon teal, common
merganser and other ducks are abundant, as are many species
of shorebirds, songbirds and woodpeckers. The endangered
coastal snowy plover lives here. Sightings are dependent on
location and season, but the Oregon Dunes are a birding
bonanza any time of year.
Many of those birds are drawn to the area by the abundant
berries. The berries also draw berry pickers. First to ripen
early in June are the salmonberries and thimbleberries. Blue
elderberries mature in late August and September. August
also offers Himalaya and Evergreen blackberries, followed by
huckleberries and blueberries. Tiny wild strawberries can be
found in grassy hummocks near the beach all summer.
Lighthouses know no season. In fact, they are sometimes
more dramatic in fog, stormy weather or at dusk. Nine
classic lighthouses survive along the Oregon coast. Five of
those offer regular tours, and two more can be visited by
special permission.
Just north of Florence is the Heceta Head Lighthouse,
built in 1894. It was the strongest light on the Oregon
coast, visible from 21 miles offshore.
Six miles south of Reedsport is the Umpqua River
Lighthouse, a twin to the Heceta. A year-round campground is
near the lighthouse. Umpqua was also put into service in
1894, replacing a 1857 structure that fell into the river.
These two lighthouses are in the Oregon Dunes area. Three
more to the south and four to the north make the Oregon
coast light up the heart of any lover of lighthouses.
Plenty to see, and do, at Oregon Dunes National
Recreation Area and Sand Lake. North of Sand Lake, Steller's
sea lions inhabit the rocks around Cape Meares Lighthouse,
and a ghost lives in the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse near
Newport.
For many visitors, however, the perfect way to end a day
of dune climbing is to park on the beach, walk along the
surf line, then sit on the sand to watch a Pacific
sunset.
Copyright © 1999 Jim Elder. All
rights reserved.
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