New York's Ausable River

by Fran Betters

"...miles of fast, tumbling pocket water provide much cover and protection so there is always a heavy population of fish, including a good number of lunker trout in the two- to five-pound class."

	A section of New York State's Ausable River.

Nestled in New York's pristine Adirondack Mountains lies the Ausable River, acclaimed by many as the premier trout stream in the East. This river is actually divided into three sections; the East Branch, the West Branch, and the main river where the two branches join forces. But it's the West Branch that has gained world recognition as the best trout stream in New York State.

Its clean, mineral-rich waters, formed by the numerous spring feeders coming from the high peaks of the region, supply abundant cold water to keep the river temperatures trout adaptable throughout the summer months. The gradient (the river drops in elevation nearly 4,000 feet over a 40-mile distance), along with many waterfalls and deep holding pools, provide plenty of places for the fish to take refuge during the winter months and hot periods of summer. A heavy canopy bordering most of the stream provides shelter from the sun and a breeding ground for many insects. Add to these prerequisites for an idyllic trout stream a bed of rich soil and uncountable boulders to provide aeration, and you do indeed have all the necessary ingredients for the ideal fly fishing paradise.

Although many streams do not have an abundance of the three major insect species that nourish trout, this is not the case with the West Branch of the Ausable. The river, for generations, has been noted for its numerous hatches of mayflies, caddis, and stoneflies, making it a river that seems perfectly suited for the fly fisher.

Other features that make it a fly fisher's choice is the diversity of the stream itself. Long stretches of river contain deep runs of slower water that are especially suited for the nymph fisherman. But to the pleasure of the most dedicated of fly fishermen, miles of fast, tumbling pocket water provide much cover and protection so there is always a heavy population of fish, including a good number of lunker trout in the two- to five-pound class.

Since this type of water is not for the timid or less adventurous, you often have a large stretch of stream to yourself for an entire evening. It's the kind of outing that many dream of but rarely find on other streams.

The Ausable is fished most heavily on weekends, but from Monday until Friday, large portions of the stream are lonely stretches of water teeming with fish unbothered by flying lures and slashing lines.

Two years ago, another dimension was added to the West Branch. A five-mile catch-and-release section was set aside and stocked with larger trout in an effort to provide even better fishing on the more accessible section of the river. Last year was the first full season for the catch-and-release area and there was overwhelming approval and many happy faces on those visiting the river. Even during the warmer summer months when the trout were more selective, there were reports of numerous large fish caught and released on most evenings.

The greatest benefits to this section, however, were not in the section itself, but on the remainder of the stream. The more adventurous fly fishers reported far fewer anglers on those sections since the catch-and-release water drew the majority of visitors. This has resulted in better fishing on the entire stream. The carry-over of large fish will provide a bonanza and the fishing will only get better each year.

The best time to plan your fly fishing vacation is between the first week in May to the middle of July and from the last week in August until the middle of October. Starting in early May, you can expect good hatches of Hendricksons lasting from 10 days to two weeks and then continuous hatches of March Browns, Gray Foxes, Olives, and Cahills until the end of June.

The most famous hatch of all on the river is the Green Drake. Fishermen travel from all over to be on the river during this hatch and if you've never seen the Drake hatch when the spinners come back in the evening to lay their eggs, then you haven't experienced the greatest thrill of fly fishing. The river literally "comes alive" during this spinner fall and trout seem to be rising everywhere you turn. This hatch appears from June 6 to June 16, usually lasting a week to 10 days. You must stay on the stream well into the evening or you will miss your best chance of taking that trophy fish.

Add to the proliferation of mayfly hatches the almost continuous hatches of caddis and stoneflies during this period and you will understand why the West Branch gets the nod as being the best trout stream in the East.

The most productive patterns on the river through May and June are the Ausable Wulffs, Haystack patterns in grey, rusty orange and brown, Usuals, Mini-Muddlers (fished both wet and dry), black and brown stonefly nymphs, and Ausable Caddis.

The West Branch of the Ausable has its beginnings around the 4,000 foot level on the south side of Mt. Marcy, the highest peak in the Adirondacks. It flows northward, crossing Rt. 73 east of the village of Lake Placid along Riverside Drive to Rt. 86 about seven miles west of the village of Wilmington.

It continues northward through Wilmington and goes northeast another 10 miles to the village of Ausable Forks where it joins with the East Branch to form the main Ausable River.

The catch-and-release section begins one mile upstream of the Rt. 86 bridge that crosses the river where Riverside Drive joins Rt. 86. The remaining four miles of catch-and-release is downstream along Rt. 86 toward Wilmington. From the lower section of the catch-and-release area downstream, there are about five miles of pools, pockets, and runs down past the Wilmington Notch campsite to the dammed section in the center of town. This dam forms a two-mile section of river that holds many large fish and is mainly fished from a small boat or canoe. From the dam in the center of town downstream for a distance of 10 miles is some of the best fly fishing water on the river. A two-mile section from the dam down is mostly pockets, fast tumbling water and pools. Excellent dry fly fishing.

Downstream from this spot is a mile of posted water, inaccessible to the public. From this posted section downstream to the village of Ausable Forks, there is the section called the Bush Country. This more remote area totals a distance of about six miles. Although one side of the river is posted, it can be accessed from the lower end of Ausable Forks. Just below the old paper dam outside Ausable Forks, there is another mile of excellent pocket water with heavy populations of fish.

For those coming into the region from the North and East, take Exit 34 on the Northway, then Rt. 9 south to Ausable Forks and Jay, turning west at Jay on Rt. 86 to the village of Wilmington. For those coming from New York and other points south and west, take exit 30 to Keene Valley, Keene, Jay and then Wilmington.

There are numerous motel and lodges in Wilmington that cater to sports people. A good motel room can be found ranging from $20 upwards. There is also a rustic West Branch Club fishing lodge with rooms for $15 a night or two for $25. It's full on weekends, so be sure and call in advance for reservations.

There are two fly shops in Wilmington. One is the Adirondack Sport Shop that I've owned and operated for the past 34 years. There is also a new one called the Hungry Trout Fly Shop.

1998 Season Summary

This past fishing season will go down as one of the most productive in the Adirondacks in many years. In my 35 years of running the Adirondack Sport Shop on the Ausable, it was the busiest ever and one of the best trout seasons in the last dozen -- perhaps more. Many of my older customers who have been coming to the region to fly fish for 30 or more years said it was their best year on the Ausable for taking quality fish.

An accumulation of conditions produced such great fishing for the entire season. Mother Nature did her part with a continuous supply of rain. Although this was not conducive to a great tourist season, it constituted a healthy and comfortable environment for the fish. Water temperatures remained much to the fish's liking throughout the summer months with no hot periods or overheating of the water.

This helped to maintain good hatches on the stream all season. The more hardy fishermen and fisherwomen who ventured forth on the rainy days excelled and were often rewarded with catches of trophy trout. The granddaddy of them all was a 7-1/2 pound brown taken from the upper section of the Ausable near the skeet range in Lake Placid. There was a fair number of other trout in the three- to five-pound class taken also.

The five-mile catch-and-release section of stream outside the village of Lake Placid -- on the upper section of the Ausable -- provided some easy-access fishing for the less experienced and served to keep pressure off the better and more rugged sections of the river. The greatest benefit to all is the increase in the number of fishermen who return part or all of their catch to the stream even when they are not in the catch-and-release section, providing additional hours of pleasure on subsequent trips. This is a respectful approach to preserving such a valuable resource beyond the no-kill zone.

Although the trout season is closed on a large portion of the Ausable and Saranac rivers after October 15, remember that the catch-and-release sections of these rivers, up to the first barriers above Lake Champlain, are open all year. On nice late-fall and winter days, you will have those sections of stream pretty much to yourself.

On the Ausable, the year-round section stretches from Lake Champlain up to the Falls at Ausable Chasm.

On the Saranac, it is the section from Lake Champlain upstream to the Imperial Paper Mill Dam. The Bouquet River also has a section open year-round, from the mouth at Lake Champlain up to the dam in Willsboro.

These are excellent sections to try your luck at taking a salmon, especially during the entire months of October and November.

For those who wish to pursue trout into the late fall and winter months, you'll find beadhead nymphs fished along the bottom the most productive. The key to success when water gets cold is to fish the flies slow and on the bottom. Other productive patterns for cold-water fishing are Muddlers, Woolly Buggers, and Woolly Worms, in addition to maribou streamers.

For More Information

Coming into the area? Looking for the best place to fly fish? Want to know what they are biting on? What hatches are available? For any questions that you may have on the Ausable or on Francis Betters custom flies, custom fly rods and reels, or other gear contact:

The Adirondack Sport Shop
Wilmington Road, P.O. Box 56,
Wilmington, NY 12997
phone: 518-946-2605
e-mail: AusbleWulf@aol.com

Or visit Fran Better's Web Page (http://franbetters.com) or The Adirondack Sport Shop (http://adirondackflyfishing.com).

Copyright 1998 Francis Betters. All rights reserved.