The Prairie in Winter:
A Quail Hunt in the
Comanche National Grasslands
by Jim Fergus
"... And I'll try
to remind myself of how lucky we as Americans are to own
these lands...to enjoy the rare privilege of wandering
across them with gun and dog."
|

|
|
|
The Comanche National
Grasslands.
|
It's a clear cold day in December and the wind blows so
hard in the river bottom that when the quail flush the
hunter cannot hear the distinctive warning sound of buzzing
wings. It's dry, the scenting conditions poor and the dogs,
too, are confused by the wind.
In any case, scaled quail are notorious runners; they
don't like to fly in the best of conditions and are
especially reluctant to take wing in the wind. When they do
get up, they hit those air currents and peel off like tiny
fighter jets when the after-burners kick in. Or else they
stay so low to the ground that the hunter doesn't dare shoot
for fear of peppering the dogs.
In the mental disorder brought on by the howling wind,
the hunter mounts his gun and tries to get on one of the
soundlessly flushing, erratically flying little birds that
seem no bigger than bees. He has only a split second before
the covey disperses, fading back into the heavy cover. He
pulls the trigger with stiff wind-frozen fingers but even as
he does so he has the sense that the shot charge itself is
being blown off course, scattering and collapsing feebly in
the air as the birds slip away like ghosts.
He tries to watch them down, and he calls to his
companions who are scattered across the sandy river bottom,
but his words, like the shot charge, are snatched from his
icy lips, stolen away by the wind. All he can do is holler
mutely, wave and pantomime to his friends who do not hear
him and did not hear or see the birds flush, each isolated
in his own world of wind.
The next time I catch myself whining about federal
mismanagement of public lands (as we sportsmen tend rather
incessantly to do), I'll try to remind myself of a recent
trip to the Comanche National Grasslands in southeastern
Colorado, hard against the Oklahoma border. I'll recall the
pristine beauty of the prairie in winter, the largely
undisturbed hills of dried shortgrass (buffalo grass and
blue gamma), sagebrush and yucca, and the mid-grasses (sand
dropseed, side oats grama, little bluestem, western
wheatgrass) that grow on the sandy land. I'll remember the
cold springs trickling out of canyon walls and the treed
river bottoms, dry this time of year, the cottowoods
leafless.
But mostly, I'll remember the birds and the general
diversity of wildlife. In one day we saw coyotes, road
runners, several species of hawks, eagles and owls, doves,
wild turkeys, wild pigeons, antelope, quail... And I'll try
to remind myself of how lucky we as Americans are to own
these lands, to have access to them, to enjoy the rare
privilege of wandering across them with gun and dog.
Of course, I'll also remember the wind. The prairie --
both its human and its natural history -- is defined by
wind. Anthropologists have even speculated that the nearly
constant wind was one possible cause for the inherently
warlike nature of the various plains Indian tribes. The
wind, this theory has it, put them on edge, made them
perpetually cranky.
Much of the land contained in the Comanche National
Grasslands literally blew away in the 1930s, the Dust Bowl
years. This unprecedented ecological, social and economic
catastrophe was not caused by drought and wind as is
commonly believed (though these climatological forces
certainly contributed) but by 20 years of wholesale plowing
and overgrazing of the native prairie grasses that for
centuries had held this land in place. The prairie had
always withstood periods of drought and was well-accustomed
to the wind, but now free of its anchoring cover of grass
and roots, the topsoil was simply blown away, carried off in
huge black clouds that literally blackened the skies and
drove settlers mad.
By 1938 the few homesteaders who had managed to hang on
through the catastrophe were begging the federal government
to buy back their ruined and worthless farms. Thus was born
the Federal Land Purchase program in which millions of acres
of severely damaged cropland -- formerly native prairie --
were retired from cultivation. Over the intervening years
some of this land has been rehabilitated, some even brought
back into production. And today, thanks to continuing
efforts by the U.S. Forest Service and other agencies, much
of the prairie that lies within the boundaries of the
Comanche National Grasslands has been restored to something
of its former splendor.
My group had come to southeastern Colorado to hunt scaled
quail.
Sadly, the native lesser prairie chicken, once so
prolific in this region, has been unable to adapt to the
loss of its prairie habitat and never recovered from the
ecological devastation of the Dust Bowl years. The ongoing
conversion of native sandsage prairie into irrigated
cropland continues to suppress populations and the prairie
chicken has been listed as a threatened species by the
Colorado Division of Wildlife.
Our first day in the field was cool and
uncharacteristically windless. There is a tremendous
diversity of country in this region, which is essentially a
transition zone between plains and desert -- everything from
classic shortgrass prairie -- perfectly flat and treeless --
to rolling hills, buttes and canyonlands that are
reminiscent of Utah or Arizona.
We were hunting the country around Picture Canyon and the
cover was some of the finest I've ever seen. With the
cooperation of several private grazing associations, U.S.
Forest Service administrators carefully control grazing on
Comanche, rotating the cows to rest the fragile prairie,
while also making a number of wildlife-related improvements
-- strategic fencing, installation of water "guzzlers" to
catch and hold rain water, and creation of roosting
cover.
To recognize just how well-managed these grasslands are,
one need merely look at some of the adjoining private lands,
which side by side look something like a swatch of worn
indoor/outdoor carpeting next to a piece of shag. Much
evidence to the contrary notwithstanding, sometimes the feds
do things pretty well.
By all reports, quail production had been good this year,
aided by a mild spring with just the right amount of
moisture. We had five guns and plenty of dog power -- Steve
Collector's fine Brittany, Kate; my Lab, Sweetz; John
Warner's English springer spaniel, Seeker; and Doug Baer's
springer pup, Geronimo.
But somehow, mysteriously, despite the scenic country,
great-looking cover, perfect weather, good dogs, and
relatively well-conditioned hunters -- able and willing to
cover the ground -- after a hard morning of hunting we had
yet to see a single quail.
We broke for lunch by a small pioneer cemetery at the
mouth of a spring seeping from the canyon wall to consider
the problem. The headstones told of the life of one man,
Warner S. Chadoeroon (born in 1848, died in 1910) and
another named Wentworth (1802-1864). The country must have
been settled by these people while the Comanches and the
Cheyennes still inhabited it. There was another marker, a
small piece of white marble, inscribed with the name Edna
Capansky, a baby who lived for just the first two weeks of
May, 1909. Oddly, there were fresh flowers on the child's
grave.
The dogs lay on the rocks in the warm sun while we
ruminated over our sandwiches.
"I just can't understand where the birds are. I've never
seen better cover."
"I know it -- food, cover, water -- everything but
birds."
"I wonder if maybe they're running out ahead of the
dogs."
"Nah, my dog hasn't really gotten birdy once. If there
were birds running in front of her, I'd know about it; she'd
be trailing them."
"Yeah, my dog hasn't gotten birdy either."
"It's not as if we haven't covered plenty of ground."
"That's for sure, we should have run into at least one
covey."
"It is late in the season. Maybe they've been shot
out."
"All of them? I don't think so, there's a lot of country
here."
"Maybe we're just in the wrong spot."
"No, this is right where the ranger told us to hunt.
Besides how could it look any birdier than this?"
"There could be birds."
"That's true. I don't get it."
"Who do you suppose comes all the way out here to put
flowers on that baby's grave?"
That afternoon as we hunted on, we came across ancient
petroglyphs on the canyon walls, and on the crests of hills
we found mysterious prehistoric rock cairns -- laid out in
perfect geometric design -- their exact purpose still not
clearly understood by archaeologists. Where a canyon opened
up into a small parklike setting, we found the remains of
old stone homesteader cabins and corrals.
Nearby was the entrance to a narrow cave that had been
sealed off by the Forest Service with a gate and padlock.
"Crack Cave" it is called and it contains wall markings that
are illuminated and aligned perfectly by the sun twice a
year to tell the spring and fall equinox. Some researchers
believe the symbols to be a primitive form of writing called
ogham, used by the ancient Celts of Ireland -- fuel for the
theory that these people came to North America a thousand
years ago.
But these archaeological mysteries only partly distracted
us from the fact that we still hadn't found any quail, and
by the end of that first day, things were getting downright
ugly; there was mutiny in the air.
"I thought you guys said you had this place wired."
"Yeah, some sources."
"There aren't any birds in this country."
"Is that a note of whining I'm detecting in your
voice?"
"I don't think I'm going on any more of these trips with
you guys."
"Yeah? Who says you'll be asked?"
We still had a day and a half to turn things around, and
back at the Starlight Motel -- Springfield, Colorado's
finest -- Collector and I sprang into action. In the
time-honored tradition of prospecting out-of-town bird
hunters everywhere, we start asking around. It happened that
the owner of the Starlight, Bill Shettron, was himself a
quail hunter, though he had just recently moved back to the
area and admitted that he hadn't been out this season. But
he offered to call another local fellow on our behalf, a man
widely acknowledged to be the town's quail expert.
One thing led to another -- before the evening was out we
had all new information about where to find birds the next
day. And we finally had a plausible answer to the puzzle of
today's birdless hunt.
Evidently severe hail storms had pounded the region the
previous fall, and quail populations in certain particularly
hard-hit areas had still not recovered. Even the best
habitat management efforts often fall victim to larger
climatic forces, especially in a region that represents the
northernmost range of the scaled quail -- a species more
commonly associated with the deserts of the Southwest.
"You can't believe the damage the hail did," another
local quail hunter we spoke to told us. "It came down so
hard and thick that it killed everything in its path -- even
the sagebrush on the hills. It turned huge sections of the
grasslands into a moonscape."
As devastating to quail as they are to the flora, such
storms can wipe out entire populations, which can then take
years to recover -- which helped to explain why entire large
areas of what looked to be prime quail habitat held no
birds. What we needed to do the next day, by all accounts,
was get out of the hail's path of destruction.
The infamous prairie wind came up in the middle of the
night; we heard its distant moaning, then the rattling and
whooshing and rumbling as it blew on into town like a
freight train. I pulled the covers tight, knowing that we
were in for it the next day.
The wind had intensified by dawn and it was bitterly
cold. We fortified ourselves with a large country breakfast
at the cafe on Main Street and then headed out to the
grasslands. Steve Collector, who had once been a surveyor
and is an excellent map reader and general navigator, led
our caravan on a circuitous route down highways and section
roads and farm roads, following obscure local landmarks
described to us over the phone the night before, until we
finally reached our first destination of the day. We
unloaded dogs, uncased guns, shouted and gestured to each
other against the wind to make our plan, split up and set
off.
We were hunting a river bottom that morning and almost as
soon as we started out we got into birds. They were running
and flushing wild and, as quail tend to be, were generally
uncooperative, but at least they were there. And we were
surprised to find not only scalies but several coveys of
bobwhites, as well.
The shooting was particularly challenging in the bottom,
with thick tamarisks and willows obscuring the view so that
we had to be particularly careful to keep in voice contact
with each other. The relentless wind added to the difficulty
and also made it hard for the dogs, who under the
circumstances performed admirably. And if no one
particularly distinguished themselves in the shooting
department, we all had opportunities and by the end of the
morning there were birds in the bag.
We ate lunch crammed into the Suburban in order to get
out of the wind. Moods among our fickle group had improved
immeasurably; the car filled up with cigar smoke, and the
conversation was about quail flushing in the wind and shots
made or missed and dog work, good or bad. We had a couple of
other spots to try this afternoon back up in the grassland
prairie. Suddenly the trip organizers were off the hook --
from yesterday's bums we had become today's heroes.
Now the hunters walk up on a fenced area in the middle of
the prairie. Low grassy swales roll gently off to distant
horizons. The fence contains a water guzzler and man-made
brush piles of roosting cover. There are quail tracks in the
sand all around it and though the hunters think they've got
it surrounded, the quail hear them coming and squirt out one
end of the cover, hightailing it into the prairie.
They are remarkably fleet-footed little birds, their
gray-mottled feathers providing nearly perfect camouflage
against the ground. The dogs pick up their scent trail, the
hunters right behind them, and together they run the birds
down and flush them. The quail get up in staggered groups of
3, 4, 10 at a time, until maybe 50 are in the air, kiting
off in all directions, angles and altitudes. The guns speak
a surprisingly puny language in the wind--pffft, pffft,
pffft-pffft. A few birds tumble from the sky and the
dogs run to retrieve them.
Copyright 1998 Jim Fergus. All rights
reserved.
|