Bighorn River, Montana
(excerpted from Flywater Interactive)
"The Bighorn sits
alone, with an imperial disdain, far to the east of other
Montana trout streams."
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The king of the
West's dry fly rivers.
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And now we arrive at the undisputed heavyweight champion of
western fly fishing, the Bighorn River of Montana. That, of
course, assumes that the champ is crowned by virtue of
having the greatest number of top-feeding big fish per
mile.
On the other hand, if big fish per mile is of no
particular interest to you but instead you value solitude in
a dramatic landscape, the Bighorn will quickly move from
champ to chump in your rankings. This is (the unimaginable
Texas Hole of the San Juan excepted) the river on which you
are most likely to be pick-pocketed while fishing -- it gets
that close.
Why is this such an exceptional fishery? Vic Colvard who
has guided on the Bighorn since 1982 doesn't hesitate with
an answer. "The secret to this river is the afterbay." This
afterbay is a sort of giant holding pond below Yellowtail
Dam. Water from the afterbay empties into the river
providing for a steady flow there.
Here you have none of the fluctuations which have caused
problems on the Missouri and the Kootenai. The Bighorn truly
is a spring creek tailwater with insect populations to
match. This river has not only the steady flow of a spring
creek but the nutritional characteristics of a spring creek
as well -- an average pH of over 8.0.
The Yellowtail Dam was completed in the late 1960s and
fishing in the river commenced soon after that. Then in
April of 1978, the Crow tribe closed the river to fishing. A
legal battle ensued which ended in the Supreme Court. The
water was granted to the state of Montana and in August of
1981 the river was re-opened to fishermen. By the way,
trespassing is no joke here. Wander onto Crow land and if
caught, you will be fined. There is still plenty of bad
blood and disagreement over who should own the river.
The Bighorn sits alone, with an imperial disdain, far to
the east of other Montana trout streams. Driving over from
Livingston, you might feel that you're passing through west
Texas to go trout fishing. Don't look for breathtaking
mountain scenery here. This is a prairie stream.
The riparian corridor, on the other hand, is quite
typical of trout rivers with willows and cottonwoods running
along much of the river. Also, the little town of Ft. Smith,
while charming in its own way, boasts no four-star
restaurants. The fly shops have adequate motels and the
Bighorn Lodge (800-235-5450) on the river offers the upscale
answer to the traveling angler's needs.
The first 13 miles of the Bighorn are the most
productive (and popular). Below the 13-mile access, the
water gradually becomes warmer and more turbid and the
fishing begins to fall off. Virtually all of the fly fishing
activity takes place in this 13-mile run.
There are three access points -- Afterbay, Three Mile
(Lind) and Bighorn Access at 13 miles. The Bighorn is
commonly fished with a combination of floating and wading.
The angler is ferried to a likely lie, disembarks and fishes
the area slowly by foot.
The wading in the Bighorn is quite easy. There is quite
good wade fishing on the river but the only access is at the
boat ramps. The wading at Three Mile is especially good when
the river drops to below 4,000 cfs, and you can wade out to
the islands. Naturally, these accesses tend to get
crowded.
The Bighorn is blessed with both a good fish count and a
good average size. Fish up to 22 inches are not unexpected.
The average fish here is an honest 16 inches -- a monstrous
average. The browns that have run up from the Yellowstone
outnumber the originally planted rainbows 7 to 1 or so.
Although
nymphing is practiced without relief on the Bighorn, dry fly
fishing opportunities are plentiful, and this is one of the
great attractions of the river. Through winter into March,
midge fishing is a great choice. Griffith's Gnats up to size
#18 can give you exceptional cold-weather, dry fly fishing.
In fact, the midge patterns will work at any time of year on
the Bighorn even if other hatches are predominant.
Baetis hatch out in May, decrease in the summer and
return in the fall. Covard likes to fish a #18 sparkle dun
for the Baetis in the spring, and small BWO patterns
(Pseudocleon) can make for some exciting moments during the
fall.
During the summer look for sporadic golden stoneflies,
Pale Morning Duns on low-water years (July to mid-August)
and caddisflies. The black caddisfly hatch of late August
and September is the heaviest of the river. This evening
hatch can be startling. The biggest problem is invariably
deciding when the fish is eating your particular fly from
the masses. The black color of these imitations doesn't make
matters any easier.
Vic Colvard likes to tie a touch of red in his black
caddis patterns to help with the visibility problem. Paul
Dubas of Bighorn Angler likes a Henryville Special which he
feels fishes great and also stands out in the crowd. The
caddis pupa is also used extensively during this time. Stay
on the river right until dark for this hatch.
In the hottest months, look for hoppers and fish them
along cut banks with an occasional twitch of the rod. The
tiny Trico will put in an appearance in late summer and
early fall. If you enjoy fishing small flies with fine
leaders, this is the hatch for you. Fishing to a 20-inch
brown sipping Tricos along the bank is good for the soul but
bad for the nerves.
By the way, the Blue Dun is a popular Trico imitation
here, and the Tricos are relatively large (#18). In hot
weather, go out early -- hit the duns and wait for the
spinners (around 9:00 a.m. in hot weather).
The dependable underwater patterns are generally
effective on the Bighorn. The ubiquitous Hare's Ear is a
good choice, as is the Prince and the Pheasant's Tail. A bit
more unusual is the effectiveness of the scud or freshwater
shrimp pattern. This food is available to the trout
year-round and forms an important part of their diet. Locals
feel that the trout are not on scud as heavily as in the
past, but it is still a standard Bighorn pattern.
The Bighorn is full of aquatic worms, calling the
venerable San Juan Worm into action. The soft hackle sow
fished with the worm is a sort of local jig-and-pig
favorite. As usual, streamers come into their own in the
fall when the spawning browns become territorial.
Once a good fish has been hooked, a useful trick on the
Bighorn is to take note of a landmark (a rock or tree) near
one's feet on the bank, so that, if playing the fish
requires scrambling up or down the river, one can return to
the exact spot where the first fish was hooked. Bighorn
browns often lie in pods, and this technique will result in
another fish being taken with exactly the same cast.
Like most tailwaters, the temperature in the Bighorn is
generally frigid. The temperature will not struggle into the
40s until at least mid-spring. During this period, dress
warmly under the obligatory neoprenes. By contrast, in
August the water can, for a short time, warm so dramatically
as to adversely affect fishing. The river is open
year-round, but the winter is, predictably, very cold.
The Bighorn is certainly one of the finest streams in the
West for fishing dry flies to large trout. Were it not for
the crowds, the Bighorn would surely be angling nirvana.
The Bighorn is one of 50 rivers covered in the CD-ROM
Flywater Interactive. In addition to
the River Profiles on each of those 50 rivers, you will find
maps, photographs, hatch information, fly charts, support
services, regulations and more. The Flywater
Interactive CD-ROM sells for $59.95 and can be
ordered by telephoning 800-692-6292. Two coffee table books,
Watermark and Flywater
by Grant McClintock and Mike Crockett , are also
available. Or visit Flywater Interactive at www.flywater.com.
Copyright © 1996 Flywater
Publishing.
All rights reserved.
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