By Stu Bristol
 A vacation in Maine can go from one extreme to another. Along the coast there are shopping malls, outlet stores, beaches, lighthouses and amusement parks, and lots and lots of tourists; all evidence that the state deserves its nickname, "Vacationland." At the other extreme, the Maine is comprised of over 17 million acres of wilderness. The dense forests of western and northern Maine can be a foreboding place to the uninitiated.
Nestled in the Western Mountains, for example, are large tracts of land that have been reserved just for those of you wanting to get away from the crowds, but not quite ready to meet the challenges of heading out with a map and compass, in the deep dark forest, filled with moose and bears.
Statewide, over half a million acres of prime forestland, lakes and ponds has been set aside in a program known as "Public Reserved Land." These properties range in size from 500 acres in size to a single tract encompassing a whopping 37,000 acres.
With few exceptions, Public Reserved lands are open to the public, without charge, for all forms of outdoor recreation. There are no fences, no roads patrolled by Park Rangers, and, of course, no public rest rooms or gift shops, and very few tourists. As you drive past these properties, there will not even be a sign declaring the boundaries of the public land trust.
Still, it's there for you and well worth the minor effort needed to plan a visit to one or more public tracts of land. Along the New Hampshire border, just northwest of Bethel, over 52,000 acres of designated land is available to you for day use or overnight camping, free of charge. Near the center of these reserved tracts is the crown jewel of Maine's western mountains region, Grafton Notch State Park.
Grafton Notch State Park
The park, located along Route 26,northwest of Bethel, near the new Hampshire border, covers 3,112 acres and features several spectacular hiking trails. Situated on the northern end of the Mahoosuc Mountain Range, the famed Appalachian Mountain Trail winds through the park.
There are no organized camping or recreation facilities at Grafton and daytime users will be asked for a modest $1.00 fee. There are, however, plenty of picnic tables and grills.
 You'll be amazed that the scenic wonders of this region have been kept from developers. Get a close-up look at Screw Auger Falls, where the swirling waters of the Bear River have worn holes up to 25 feet deep in the solid granite riverbed. Had forward-looking conservationists not acted swiftly, there might be a parking lot and a viewing charge to see this natural wonder, but it's free to all of you who make the short hike.
Along the way you will encounter one of the rarest formations in New England, a natural bridge, near the Mother Walker Falls. Hike on, to the top of Old Speck Mountain, for a panoramic view of southern Maine. Use common sense and caution here, as some of the hiking trails get steep.
You will surely want to stop for a quick peek at Moose Cave Gorge, alongside Route 26 just south of the park. A well-maintained parking area is provided and a great overlook of the sinuous 60 yard slot in solid bedrock. Sixty yards long, thirteen feet deep and two yards wide, this natural wonder is surrounded by huge, moss-covered boulders.
Grafton Notch State Park is open to the public from May 15 through October 15 for vehicle traffic. During the winter, one of the main arteries of Maine's more than 12,000 miles of interconnected snowmobile trails; ITS 82, winds through the park.
Persons needing more specific information on the park may call (207) 824-2912 during the season and (207) 624-6075 during the off-season.
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Richardson Tract
More than 17,000 acres of prime wilderness are within the Richardson tract of Public Reserved Land and visitors have the opportunity to see Maine the way it was hundreds of years ago.
At the southern end of Lower Richardson Lake, in the Town of Andover, find South Arm. Mitchell's South Arm Campground ((207) 364-5155, is the jumping off place for boaters, hikers and bikers.
The Richardson Lakes and the Rapid River are one of the last remaining wild areas in America. The 8-mile Rapid River features almost constant Class V rapids and is home to huge brook trout and landlocked salmon. At Middle Dam, where the Rapid River begins is Lakewood Camps, (207) 243-2959, a 150 year old-traditional Maine sporting camp visited by some of the best-know celebrities in the world.
Upper Richardson Lake, some 14 miles by water north of South Arm is the portage where Gertrude "Carrie" Stevens created the Gray Ghost and other historic Maine stream flies. A monument and her tiny cabin are preserved at the canoe-carrying place between Upper Richardson Lake and Mooselookmeguntic Lake.
The South Arm road turns to gravel at the campground and boat launch, then winds along the East shoreline of Richardson Lake, Mooselemeguntic Lake and rejoins route 17 in Oquossoc.
Mountain bike enthusiasts and those of you with sport utility vehicles may drive the road at no charge. Along the way you are certain to see much of Maine's signature wildlife. Moose, deer, bear, bobcats and raccoons will greet you along the way. Rest assured that none of Maine's wildlife species will harm you. Traveling in early June, it is wise to give mother bears with cubs a very wide berth and in September, male moose may not like you entering their domain during their mating season.
Neither of these animals will harm you, unless you try to get too close. Please remember that these are wild animals and not conditioned to handouts. This is not Yellowstone National Park, or a petting zoo. Look at and photograph wild animals, but keep your distance.
 If you have friends in the area, a great mountain bike trip is to leave one vehicle at the southeastern end of Mooselookmeguntic Lake and unload bikes at South Arm. This road is mostly flat with occasional peeks at the Richardson lakes. Bring a picnic lunch and eat and swim where the road crosses Metallak Brook. Be sure to bring along a fishing rod, a camera and plenty of film.
Go to the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries & Wildlife website:
www.state.me.us/ifw for license information. Maine offers a single day fishing license for only $10 and 3-day-7-day, 15-day and season-long licenses at competitive rates. Licenses are available at all Town and City Clerks, sport shops and the chain of Rite Aid drugstores.
Angel Falls
One of the most scenic Maine highways, in the fall is route 17, between Rumford and Oquossoc. Just north of the tiny town of Houghton is a tourist overlook, appropriately named "Height of the Land." From this vantage point you can see the Rangeley Lakes region on one side of the road and the Richardson Lakes and Mooselookmeguntic on the other, and a blanket of brightly colored foliage in between.
While you are in the Houghton neighborhood, plan a hike in to see one of the most dramatic waterfalls in New England, Angel Falls. Just a short drive to the west of Houghton, on the Bemis Track Road, is a parking area from which you can visit Angel Falls. This is not one of those roadside attractions that have dozens of signs leading the way, or trash cans and ice cream vendors.
This is one of those in between day trips I mentioned above that is not for the folks who want lobsters and lighthouse crowds, but are not yet ready to bushwhack.
You'll need to keep your wits about you for this one, but the view of the falls is well worth the effort. Once you find the parking area, the road leading partway to the falls is a wide logging trail and is easy to follow. The ascent to Angel Falls is fairly steep but can be made at a leisurely pace in about an hour, one way.
The trial narrows and gets steeper, but it is still quite recognizable. Along the way, the forest is dense and the opportunity to see wildlife up close is almost a certainty.
The Maine woods can be a friendly place to visit but in bad weather it can gobble you up. Even though this type of outing is not the same as trekking though the uncharted forest, it is wise to bring along a cellular telephone, a topographic map and some basic survival gear like matches, insect repellent and bottled water.
Maine has a reputation for bugs the size of elephants and, should you get turned around or off the trail in mid-summer, a night in the forest, alone with the mosquitoes and black flies without this gear, not be life-threatening, but it will be very uncomfortable.
It is advisable, for any off-road adventure in Maine to have along a good set of road and topographic maps. DeLorme Mapping Company of Freeport offers an excellent product for tourists and sportsmen and women. The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer is the leader in Maine road maps. The statewide collection of maps retails for $16.00 and is available at most books stores or at
www.delorme.com.
For those of you into high-tech mapping, Maptech of Greenland, New Hampshire offers the entire state on four CD-ROM disks for just under $100 and also offers package deals for multiple states. Their products offer laptop and home PC users maps that can be annotated, and include helpful features such as distance and area tools and elevation profiles. Check out Maptech at
www.maptech.com.
While you're shopping for more information, take a minute to visit the Maine Campground Owners Association at
www.campmaine.com or the Maine Department of Tourism at
www.mainetoday.com. Hot links to guides, sporting camps and just about anything you want or need to know about the Maine out of doors can be found at the Maine Department of Inland fisheries & Wildlife website:
www.state.me.us/ifw.
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