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By Vernon Summerlin
Many of you Jeepsters know about Daniel Boone National Forest that runs from the Tennessee border near Williamsburg, KY north-northeast to within 15 miles of Ohio, and have visited it. Adjacent to it to the south lies another area for adventures.
Focusing on Williamsburg as our jumping off point, head east on Kentucky Route 92 through Hollyhill, Pine Knot, Revelo, and Smith Town to Hill Top, KY. You are now on the northeastern edge of the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area (BSFNRRA).
The BSF, as we'll refer to it here, gets its name from the south fork of the Cumberland River that cut through the hard capstone layer of sandstone and created deep dramatic gorges five hundred feet deep or more in the softer limestone layers beneath.
The Big South Fork of the Cumberland River runs through the Cumberland Plateau from Tennessee into Kentucky. Along with its tributaries, this steep gorge river system courses more than 80 miles through wild and rugged terrain. The headwaters of BSF, located in the southern end of the park, are Clear Fork River and New River in Fentress and Morgan Counties of Tennessee, respectively. Near Burnside, Kentucky Big South Fork River joins the Cumberland River to form Lake Cumberland.
As early as 1881 the Army Corps of Engineers was looking for ways to improve the usefulness of the Big South Fork. Initially, improvements in navigation were considered, followed in the 1950s and 1960s by proposals for a dam at Devils Jump in Tennessee.
In 1966 the Tennessee Citizens for Wilderness Planning set out to find a permanent solution that would protect the scenic river gorge. They tried a variety of options and finally found a solution with the help of then-Tennessee Sen. Howard Baker, who drafted legislation creating the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area.
The bill specified that the Army Corps of Engineers would plan and develop the park, but the National Park Service would ultimately take over its management and preservation. The result is 123,000 acres of multiple-use areas that include camping, fishing, hunting, hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking, white-water rafting, canoeing, and a couple of routes for off-road vehicles.
Most of the BSF acreage is in Tennessee. The Kentucky portion includes the Blue Heron Outdoor Historical Museum. Interpretive exhibits, audiotapes, and reconstructed buildings tell the stories of coal mining and logging in the area. You may also ride the Big South Fork Scenic Railway from Stearns, Kentucky, to Blue Heron.
BSF trails lead past many outstanding geologic features including Indian Rockhouses and Twin Arches (two of the largest arches in the eastern United States), waterfalls, and spectacular overlooks.
Do-It-Yourself-Playground
Since 1990 the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area has been a giant do-it-yourself playground. Not only a playground with swimming pool, swings, picnicking and volley ball, but a playground with rock climbing, rappelling, four-wheeling, spelunking, mountain biking, hiking, back country camping and whitewater canoeing. Does that sound like fun? Then the Big South Fork National River and Recreational Area is the place for you.
Other than common sense notices that protect you and the environment, the park is wide open to do as you please. You can hike without asking a soul if you choose. It's in the interest of your safety to let the rangers know your plans, but not necessary.
By now you should have the impression that there is more to do at BSF than you could accomplish in a few weeks. It makes outdoor adventures affordable (bring your tent and cook your own food over a campfire), friendly (park rangers will provide information, directions, maps, and brochures to 27 activities) and educational (nature hikes, historical trips and information on the flora and fauna of the area). BSF accommodates the individual as well as large groups.
Do-It-Yourself Adventures
Hiking: You can take a hike from less than a mile to over 250 miles. It' an easy hike to scenic places like Buffalo Arch, Sunset Overlook and Angel Falls. If you prefer a challenge, there are moderate to strenuous trails including Leatherwood Loop, Angel Falls Overlook and Grand Gap. If distance is your ideal adventure, try the Sheltowee Trace Trail for 254 miles.
Whether you enjoy day-trips, overnight, or weeklong treks, there are over 150 miles of marked trails to guide you through the scenic plateau. Those of you who prefer to strike out on your own have access to all 105,000 acres for an unlimited visit.
Pick up "A Guide to Trees along the Angel Falls Trail" for illustrations of 30 trees. A directory of over 130 wildflowers listed by the seasons is available, as are lists of 55 mammals and over 100 birds.
Horseback Riding: Eleven trails from 4 to 40 miles ranging from easy to strenuous allow you to see sights few get to experience. The Sheltowee Trace Trail is also available to horses. There are over 130 miles of blazed horse trails in BSF.
Boarding stables are available to the public at the Bandy Creek Campgrounds. Proof of a negative Coggins Test for Swamp Fever (EIA) is required on arrival. Visitors can also rent horses. All are invited to join guided trips ranging from an hour to three days.
Charit Creek is accessible only on horseback or on foot. Charit Creek Lodge provides cabins for you and stables for your mount when exploring this beautifully remote area. Using Charit Creek Lodge as a base camp you can visit the Twin Arches, old home sites, waterfalls and climb to summits for a grand vista of BSF.
Canoeing, Kayaking and Rafting: Come prepared for excitement on the water! The Big South Fork and its tributaries have some (but not much) flat water and plenty of rapids, up to Class IV. If you are not whitewater experienced, take a guided trip with one of the commercial outfitters in the area.
Float trips last from a few hours to several days. Check with the rangers at Bandy Creek for river conditions and related information. Expect camping on the riverbanks to be challenging. Even when instructed about where camping is easier, finding them may be difficult. The shoreline is often steep and over grown with mountain laurel and rhododendrons. Open spaces are rare and without careful observation, you may paddle past a site and not find another for miles. Plan to reach your campsite about mid afternoon, the bottom of the gorge gets dark early.
Mountain Biking: The Duncan Hollow Trail is 5.3 miles long with easy to moderate pedaling. The eight-mile Collier Ridge Loop Trail is moderate. These trails provide the ups, downs, and arounds that bikers expect in the mountains. It's important to carry a first aid kit and wear protective devices for your head and eyes--this is not a ride around the block.
In addition to the two trails, bikers have hundreds of miles of old dirt roads and trails to explore. All horse, ATV, and gravel roads are open to peddlers. Touring the paved roads may appeal to others.
Camping: As varied as the terrain of the Cumberland Plateau, you can camp in the backcountry or in the comfort of your RV. Bandy Creek Campgrounds offers five primitive sites, 50 tent sites, 35 group tent sites, and 100 RV sites. Bandy Creek has bathhouses, dump stations, electricity, picnic areas, swimming pool, and playgrounds for all ages. Facilities include handicapped accessible sites, restrooms, and showers. There are many other public sites available.
Backcountry camping is allowed throughout the BSF Park without requiring a permit. If this is your ideal way to camp, it's prudent to leave your itinerary with a ranger at the Bandy Creek Visitor's Center.
Off-Roading
Bad News: Here is where Congressional mandates interfere. Some years ago all vehicles capable of cross country travel had routes set aside for their exploration of back trails through forests and gorges. As the park grew, so did restrictions for off-roading says Park Ranger Howard Duncan. He says the old Ohio and Western Railroad bed is still open.
"The O&W railroad bed is one of the best left and will remain open in the foreseeable future for four-wheeling. Another place is Darrow Ridge. It has quite a few miles of old oil-and-gas and logging roads that get you way back in the wilderness. It's in the southwestern part of the park off Tennessee State Route 154."
Duncan laments that policies are changing. "In the nearby Daniel Boone National Forests, Congressional mandates are limiting more off-roading areas. The same is happening here in the Big South Fork. The more land we acquire in the gorge, the less four-wheeling will be allowed by the mandate.
"One thing that is happening now is a new management plan, and it will further reduce the areas where motorized vehicles will be allowed. Unfortunately it's going to be harder and harder for us who enjoy getting off the road into the backcountry."
Good News: In spite of growing limits to off-road access there are plenty of places you can still visit and enjoy, such as those mentioned above. BSF is still a do-it-yourself park with fewer restrictions than most parks. Adventures await you.
For more information: Big South Fork NRRA, Rt. 3, Box 401, Oneida, TN 37841; 931-879-3625. Ask for brochures and maps about the adventures you seek.

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