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Red River; Jewel of the Enchanted Circle
By: Dan C. Johnson
The Enchanted Circle is a popular circle tour route through Carson National Forest. It encompasses such getaway destinations as Taos and Eagle Nest, but nestled in the high mountains on the northern tip of the circle, Red River offers not only the lushest scenery but also an all too rare sense of seclusion from the outside world. Whether you descend into the valley on the winding mountain road from the east or climb in from the sage brush covered hills from the west, your arrival in Red River will not only mean a change in altitude, but likely a change in attitude.
Those accustomed to the fast-paced city life may need a little time to adjust to the easy going friendly atmosphere. Red River is primarily a ski resort, but it maintains the down-home atmosphere of its mining town past. There is none of the glitzy jet-set crowd here. Just a clean little town peopled with good friendly folks. You’ll soon find yourself not only returning smiles and hellos to strangers on the street but stopping to chat for a while. The locals here always seem to have time to point visitors in the right direction, whether the destination is a good restaurant or a secluded fishing spot.
When Jeep Destinations asked me to report on things to see and do in the Red River area, I was feeling a bit burned out on city living and jumped at the chance to reacquaint myself with the area. I left Albuquerque at midnight under a full summer moon and headed north. Once I left the Interstate and drove beyond the city lights of Sante Fe and Taos, I enjoyed the adventure of driving through a moonlit wonderland. I took the east side of the Enchanted Circle up through the Rio Grande Gorge. The highway follows the river for some distance here and I stopped at some of the parking areas to enjoy the late night solitude. This is a busy area during daylight hours in summer and while the scenery is impressive and there is good fishing access, most die-hard four-wheelers will prefer to visit more secluded locales.
 There are plenty of forest roads branching off from the main highways that make up the Enchanted Circle and most are just rough and rocky enough to keep the motor homes and travel trailers at bay. Good ground clearance and tough tires are all that’s needed for most of them, but there are some wet or sandy areas where you will need use four-wheel drive. Whichever road you take, you can count on lots of stunning alpine scenery.
A little before 3 AM, I took one of these forest roads and climbed to a high meadow where I unrolled my sleeping bag and caught a couple of hours of sleep. I pulled out just at dawn and continued my journey to Red River. I passed Eagle Nest Lake, which contains about 2200 acres of surface water and offers some of the best Rainbow and Kokanee salmon fishing in the Southwest. The lake is only seventeen miles from Red River and in that distance I saw at least 50 elk feeding in small groups along the highway. I also saw wild turkey and coyotes, along with numerous smaller wildlife.
The sun was warming the peaks, but the Red River Valley was still shaded when I pulled into town in search of some breakfast. I was a bit early, since most places don’t start serving until seven, but it gave me a chance to walk around town a bit and stretch my legs. As for breakfast, there are several good choices, from blueberry pancakes at the Redwood Café to “Breakfast on a Bun” at the Main Street Deli. For a leisurely breakfast with a varied menu, try the restaurant at the Alpine Inn. Or, to fill up quick on a budget, Shotgun Willie’s offers the all-you-eat Mountain Man breakfast for $3.99.
 When lunchtime rolls around, there are even more choices. Steven Shelton has worked for years as a Chef in some of the ritzier restaurants in the area, but now he prefers to serve a variety of good food in the simple surroundings of the Redwood Inn. Whether you choose seafood, Mexican, or Italian, the quality is excellent and the portions generous. If you prefer to pack a picnic lunch into the mountains, the Main Street Deli offers a variety of ready-made foods, or you can pick up some supplies at Der Market, a local grocery store with surprisingly good prices for a remote resort town.
I asked a number of the locals where the best dining was to be found. Capos Corner and Brett’s came up often, but the one restaurant on everyone’s list of favorites was Texas Reds. They offer a laid-back western atmosphere where you can munch on roasted peanuts while you are waiting on your steaks and throw the shells on the floor.
There is ample lodging in this little town as well, from simple to more elegant digs. I chose to stay at the Alpine Inn and was afforded a comfortable, clean room and friendly service. The Inn is right on the river so you can sit on a park bench and watch the water go by or even wet a hook if you like. The Alpine is also home to Red River’s newest and most unique nightspot, the Brass Rail. This renovated old cinema offers a variety of live entertainment during peak seasons.
There are not a lot of tourist attractions in the surrounding area. Red River’s appeal is a pristine getaway from city noise and summer’s heat. The average high temperature here during summer is 75 degrees. So, if you are looking for fast-paced action, this may not be the spot for you. But, for those wishing to slow down, cool off, and enjoy an unspoiled natural experience, check out the Jewel of the Enchanted Circle.
Copyright © 2001 Dan C. Johnson. All rights reserved.
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